I often think of grape varieties as having character traits. Sauvignon blanc – light-hearted; zinfandel – boozy; pinot noir – aloof; cabernet – commanding; tempranillo – dashing; nebbiolo – noble; and so on. There is one grape that I have never written up to date in MoneyWeek in my 582 columns and this is because its character trait, until today, has been “brutal”. Aglianico is usually a tannic, sour, hard, ungiving red grape, and on the numerous times that I have tried to pick a mellow, balanced, or even remotely drinkable one,
I have failed.
Teodosio is different because it is downright delicious while retaining the hallmarks of this famous variety. Grown on the slopes of Mount Vulture in the baking hot instep of Italy’s boot, the wild, cedar and tobacco notes are superb on the nose, but the palate is buoyant with juiciness and there is little tannin sticking out the end of this wine to dry out the palate.
I heartily recommend this hearty wine and it is not too dear either. If you would like to trial this grape with an entry-level offering, then head for 2015 Messapi, Aglianico del Vulture (£11, Marks & Spencer) – a few quid cheaper and a little more genial, too. Wow – two brutes tamed on one page.
l Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).