Wine of the week: a labour of love from Australia

Bottle of 2015 Circe Pinot Noir wine

2015 Circe, Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia (£29.95 or £323.40 for a case of 12 bottles, Berry Bros. & Rudd, 0800-2802440; 

I first wrote this wine up in my 100 Best Australian Wines 2016/2017 Report, which was published over a year ago. At the time there was only a dribble of stock in the country. Now Berry Bros. & Rudd has a goodly amount of cases in stock, so I feel compelled to alert you to its existence.

Circe’s wines come from the scholarly academy of winemaking. These are fastidious, labour-intensive creations made with no care for the man-hours or pain invested. They are veritable labours of love and this is plain to smell when you lower your proboscis into the glass. This carmine-hued Mornington Peninsula Pinot has a stunning sheen and arresting aromatic promiscuity at the same time as being unnervingly elemental, wearing its stems on its sleeve. Youthful and crammed with cherry-stone fruit, this “green” flavour plays good-cop-bad-cop with your senses, taking turns to flatter and then sock you hard in the chops.

I expect the Pinot freaks to fight to the death for bottles. Owners/winemakers Aaron Drummond at Craggy Range and Dan Buckle at Domaine Chandon will head back to their day jobs oblivious of the street brawl they leave behind them.

 Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (