Unusual praise for a fine Lambrusco

2016 Lambrusco, I Calanchi, Monte delle VigneI have tasted four or five good Lambruscos of late, says Matthew Jukes. This one and its little brother are insanely excellent.

899_MW_P38_Wine

2016 Lambrusco, I Calanchi, Monte delle Vigne, Colli di Parma, Emilia Romagna, Italy £16.95, reduced to £14.95 each for a case of six, Lea & Sandeman, 020-7244 0522, LeaAndSandeman.co.uk

If I said that we should all drink more Lambrusco you might think Iwas endeavouring to commit career suicide. As far as trends areconcerned, the re-emergence of serious Lambrusco on our shelves is barely noteworthy. Theproblem is that I have tasted four or five good ones of late andso this cannot be simply afluke. "Anomalies happen" is oneof my favourite sayings, and so I am going to take the plunge and alert you to this insanely goodLambrusco and its jolly littlebrother.

Perfect with steak

First the less expensive, less technically involving and easier to swallow wine. NV Lambrusco Classico (£12.75, Lea & Sandeman) isblack-cherry and liquorice-soaked, frothy and bone dry. Icannot think of anything more delicious than a cold glass of this wine with a barbecued steak on asweltering day.

When others turn tobeer, I turn to elite Lambrusco. Monte delle Vigne is located south-west of Parma at300m altitude and the vines areorganically farmed. The fruit is squeaky clean and as bright ascan be.

As for my featured wine, ICalanchi, it's even more strictand searing and the snapof acidity on thefinish immeasurably brightens thewine and alsomanages to cut through every chargrilled, marinated, spicyand saucy flavour youcan throw at it.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

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