A dolcetto packed with fruit and energy

2013 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba, Sorì Costa Fiore, Cascina Adelaide, Piemonte, Italy

2013 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba, Sorì Costa Fiore, Cascina Adelaide, Piemonte, Italy (£14.99, VirginWines.co.uk).

While I am putting the finishing touches to my massive, inaugural Piemonte Report, which covers the two principal powerhouse wines of the region, Barolo and Barbaresco, I am conscious that I will only be featuring a handful of elite barberas and dolcettos in this tome.

While nebbiolo, the variety which gives longevity and majesty to both Barolo and Barbaresco, is the local hero grape and barbera a variety worthy of note, dolcetto, which drinks young, is always at the back of the queue. So let me redress this balance this week with a triumphant example of this underrated red grape.

The Cascina Adelaide estate understands that the dolcetto grape is all about vibrant black-cherry fruit and so it astutely leaves oak out of the equation. The estate also realises that most dolcettos are thin and dilute – so, by contrast, it packs its Costa Fiore wine with fruit and energy.

This wine is at its peak now and it performs the same sort of duties that elite cru Beaujolais or old vine Bierzo (mencía from Spain) might do at your dinner table – serve it slightly chilled and it will romance top charcuterie, terrines and pies, barbecue favourites and even mildly spicy Asian-influenced dishes.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).