Love at first taste in Oddbins

2014 Gavi, Terre Antiche, La Giustiniana, Piemonte, Italy

2014 Gavi, Terre Antiche, La Giustiniana, Piemonte, Italy (£12, Oddbins).

I follow this wine very closely indeed and I remember when awe-inspiring Gavi experts La Giustiniana first released it – I fell in love at first taste. It seemed amazing that an estate of this lofty stature would be prepared to make a less formal, everyday style of Gavi, bearing in mind that their elite Crus, Montessora and Lugarara, are the finest of their kind and sales trip along nicely even though they are both twice the price of my featured wine. Of course, I buy all of these, but my featured wine is the one for pouring in volume and I apologise for not alerting you to its graceful lines and enchanting palate before.

Gavi is the most overrated of all chic Italian whites, but the wines from this exquisite producer, situated in the heart of Rovereto, are genuinely thrilling. It is not a chunky, hefty wine and it certainly doesn’t involve any oak as do so many of its misguided competitors. Terre Antiche is perfectly weighted, seamless and just about the classiest aperitif I can think of, so do not delay and head down to Oddbins. This merchant is finding some of its old charm and accuracy and it still has some of the most knowledgeable shop staff in the country.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (