A hypnotic knee-trembler

This offering from Maison Perrin will make your knees tremble with anticipation, says Matthew Jukes.

2012 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, MaisonNicolas Perrin, northern Rhne, France(about £19.99, Meat N16, 020-7254 0724;Askewine, 020-8746 1585; BennettsFine Wines, 01386-840392; Noel YoungWines, 01223-566744; Leamington WineCompany, 01926-888994).

I like what Nicolas Jaboulet has done ina very short space of time. Since 2009,his brand-new micro-ngociant winecompany has gone from making fairly workmanlike northernRhne wines to crafting finely tuned, highly desirable, plushwhites and reds.

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Maison Perrin is a joint venture betweenNicolas and the Perrin family of Chteau de Beaucastel fame(the Chteauneuf-du-Pape overlords in the southern Rhne).

Mypick of Nicolas's current releases is this lusty, sensual, ravishingwhite made from 100% marsanne. All too oftenwhite Crozes is either underpowered and skittishor corpulent and lumbering.

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It's rare to find a winewhich sits in the middle of these two unattractiveextremes. Needless to say, this 2012 release isa gem.

The fruit is heady, exotic and hypnoticwith more than enough beguiling peach essenceand wild honey to make your knees tremble withanticipation.

The oak is perfect, allowing the fruit tobillow on the palate like a majestic spinnaker, andthen without a warning the acidity whip-cracks andwakes your dreamy senses up with a jolt. This ispure, unbridled excitement in a glass.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the InternationalWine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of theYear (www.matthewjukes.com).

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