A celestial beauty steps into the light

2016 Domaine Naturaliste, Rachis Syrah, Margaret River, Western Australia

2016 Domaine Naturaliste, Rachis Syrah, Margaret River, Western Australia (£25, reduced to £19.99 until 1 January, Hennings Wine, 01798-872485, HenningsWine.co.uk). 

I stumbled across a pair of Domaine Naturaliste wines two years ago and immediately put them into my 100 Best Australian Wines Report for 2016/2017. When I was compiling this year’s Report, I looked for these wines, but couldn’t find them. As it turns out, they were changing importers and had “gone dark” for a few months. I reacquainted myself last week with the full range of wines and their maker, the beautifully ennobled Bruce Dukes, and I want to shout about these wines from the rooftops. I have just published a detailed review of the wines on my website at MatthewJukes.com, so please wallow in this portfolio of beauties at your pleasure.

I have picked out the most shocking wine in the line-up here for you to feast your palates on. I say the most shocking because I have never written up a Margaret River syrah in my life. We all acknowledge that Margaret River is a sauv/sem, chard and cab region, and nothing else really makes the grade. Wrong. I have scolded myself for being so narrow-minded and you will wonder why more syrahs have not stood up before when you taste this celestial wine. There is a magical detail to its scent to make for a wine of uncommon grandeur. It is not heavy or muscular, but agile, thrilling and devastatingly delicious. I urge you to track down every bottle you can.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).