Wine of the week: a heroic red with a thrilling finish

2014 Domaine de Moncalmès Rouge, Terrasses du Larzac, Vin de Pays de l’Hérault

2014 Domaine de Moncalmès Rouge, Terrasses du Larzac, Vin de Pays de l’Hérault, France (£27.50, Yapp Brothers, 01747-860423; Yapp.co.uk).

I popped into Yapp the other day to load up with some Loire and Rhône classics. The exemplary team pushed a few bottles into my hand to taste at my leisure. Every one was superb, and the fast movers will pop up in my Daily Mail Weekend column, but there were two heroic reds that are so “MoneyWeek Style”, it’s incredible.

My featured red is a 60% syrah, 20% grenache and 20% mourvèdre blend, made by Frédéric Pourtalié. His father founded their estate in 1998 in the hamlet of Montcalmès, on the edge of the Massif Central, a decade after superstar neighbour Grange des Pères brought stardust to the area. Frédéric trained with des Pères and Alain Graillot (heroic Crozes-Hermitage estate, also a Yapp wine) and I can tell you that this wine is jaw-droppingly serious.

Unlike many, it starts off so calmly that it is like drinking a thriller – as you page through each chapter, the tension and flavour build with drama and conviction, and you are left panting with joy when the wine is fully open and it parades its full array of swarthy power. One other wine not to miss is 2013 Hermitage, Maison Lombard, J&E Montagnon (£42.00). Only 1,000 bottles were made of this budget Hermitage by the dashing Julien Montagnon, of Brézème fame, and it is utterly delicious.

 Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).