A Tuscan screamer

2012 Chianti Rufina Riserva, Vigneto Bucerchiale, Fattoria Selvapiana, Tuscany, Italy

2012 Chianti Rufina Riserva, Vigneto Bucerchiale, Fattoria Selvapiana, Tuscany, Italy (£26.99, TheWineReserve.co.uk; £29, OldBridgeWine.co.uk). 

As I get older and, inevitably, taste ever more wines, I find my palate drifting away from Tuscany. Granted, there are some superb wines made in this historic region and I am lucky to have a fairly decent selection in my cellar, but the average quality of 20- to 30-quid wine, which ought to be a sweet spot, is pretty uninspiring.

To redress this balance, I have selected an absolute screamer this week – the imperious Bucerchiale from Selvapiana, my favourite estate in the Rufina sub-region of Chianti. First a tip. You pronounce the vineyard name Boosher-kee-ah-lay, effectively reversing the “ch” and “c” sounds in its name. This is elite knowledge – use it wisely. As for the wine, this 2012 and the 2013 which follows it in September are both sensational sangioveses. Rufina is a high and relatively cool region and this often brings elegance and class into the grapes.

In 2012 Bucerchiale is the epitome of restraint and breeding, while the 2013 is expressive and succulent. Federico Giuntini Masseti, who runs his family estate, is a man of impeccable breeding and this is evident in his masterful wines. Forget overpriced Super Tuscans and oaky, extracted Brunellos for a moment and bathe your palate in these two effortlessly epic wines.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).