A spectacularly aromatic syrah

2013 Domaine Les Yeuses, Les Epices Syrah, Pays d’Oc, France

2013 Domaine Les Yeuses, Les Epices Syrah, Pays d’Oc, France (£8.99, reduced to £7.49 each when you buy six bottles, until 14 March, Majestic, Majestic.co.uk).

I have calmed down after my massively flamboyant (and pricey) red last week and found you a thoroughly engaging wine at a bargain price. At a recent Majestic press tasting, this wine got me thinking – I wondered how it could be any tastier or more varietally accurate, and, given its price, why we would spend any more cash on a French syrah.

The most obvious chink in this wine’s armour is its potential longevity – I know it will roll along for a few years, but it will not stand a chance of making the long run. Age-ability is the Holy Grail for great reds and the complexities of aroma and flavour that are associated with an older red wine cannot be copied in a young one.

Aside from this, Les Epices is made from old vines and it also sees a decent slug of oak. I realise that it is not from a highly fashionable part of the wine world – Mèze, on the edge of the Etang de Thau, not far from Montpellier, is not Hermitage, but leaving geography aside this is a spectacularly aromatic, earthy, flavour-packed syrah with a great finish.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).