A sensual, silky temptress

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Colle, Tuscany, Italy

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Colle, Tuscany, Italy (£375 for 12 bottles, Haynes, Hanson & Clark, 020-7584 7927, email: london@hhandc.co.uk).    

MoneyWeek wine fans know that I am a Brunello sceptic. I visit the region regularly and on each occasion I spend a fortune at the various well-stocked wine shops in order to track down delicious new finds. It is, more often than not, a disappointing exercise.

There is a rather baffling fashion in Montalcino right now to slaver thick, black, molasses-like fruit in brutal, splintery, fresh-cut oak. I abhor these flavours – they are the antithesis of the noble sangiovese grape. Great Brunello is the same shape as effortlessly graceful claret. I have found a classically dimensioned beauty for you and it is the right price, too.

HH&C has a shipment of this temptress arriving on or around the publication date for this piece. That is why I have given you their email address and phone number as opposed to website details – you need to act fast to secure stock. Made by Caterina Carli, this is a sensual, silky wine made with a bold non-interventionist attitude. Wild yeasts and no filtration mean that this is a pure and vital wine. It spends four years in large, old, Slavonian oak casks, which barely mark the wine with oak and it is a profound joy to drink. I have no doubt it will live for another decade with ease, too.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).