A deep and brooding gamay

2011 The Society’s Exhibition Moulin-à-Vent, Beaujolais, France (£9.95, The Wine Society, 01438-741177).

With the Glorious Twelfth just past, I thought it a good idea to recommend a spectacular but eminently affordable red wine to go with all things gamey.

I love red Burgundy with all manner of flighted game, but you have to pay upwards of £30 these days for a decent bottle and the fruit ‘sweetness’ in Aussie, Kiwi and Californian pinot noir somehow doesn’t quite work with the succulent flesh of our home-grown grouse.

At a third of the price you can, if you are quick off the mark, pick up this ridiculously classy Cru Beaujolais from one of the most famous villages in the region – Moulin-à-Vent.

Long-lived, spicy, deep and brooding, this is the most masculine face of the gamay grape. It might shock you to hear that I reckon this beauty will continue to age for a further five or six years, such is its breeding.

With masses of energy and depth of flavour, this is the wine to drink with the grandest roast grouse, game chips and bread sauce. It is a true bargain and testament to the noses at The Wine Society, which regularly sniff out spectacular wines like this one.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International by Matthew Jukes.

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