A hypnotic knee-trembler

2012 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, Maison Nicolas Perrin, northern Rhône, France (about £19.99, Meat N16, 020-7254 0724; Askewine, 020-8746 1585; Bennetts Fine Wines, 01386-840392; Noel Young Wines, 01223-566744; Leamington Wine Company, 01926-888994).

I like what Nicolas Jaboulet has done in a very short space of time. Since 2009, his brand-new micro-négociant wine company has gone from making fairly workmanlike northern Rhône wines to crafting finely tuned, highly desirable, plush whites and reds.

Maison Perrin is a joint venture between Nicolas and the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel fame (the Châteauneuf-du-Pape overlords in the southern Rhône).

My pick of Nicolas’s current releases is this lusty, sensual, ravishing white made from 100% marsanne. All too often white Crozes is either underpowered and skittish or corpulent and lumbering.

It’s rare to find a wine which sits in the middle of these two unattractive extremes. Needless to say, this 2012 release is a gem.

The fruit is heady, exotic and hypnotic with more than enough beguiling peach essence and wild honey to make your knees tremble with anticipation.

The oak is perfect, allowing the fruit to billow on the palate like a majestic spinnaker, and then without a warning the acidity whip-cracks and wakes your dreamy senses up with a jolt. This is pure, unbridled excitement in a glass. 

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).