2015 Circe, Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia (£29.95 or £323.40 for a case of 12 bottles, Berry Bros. & Rudd, 0800-2802440; BBR.com).
I first wrote this wine up in my 100 Best Australian Wines 2016/2017 Report, which was published over a year ago. At the time there was only a dribble of stock in the country. Now Berry Bros. & Rudd has a goodly amount of cases in stock, so I feel compelled to alert you to its existence.
Circe’s wines come from the scholarly academy of winemaking. These are fastidious, labour-intensive creations made with no care for the man-hours or pain invested. They are veritable labours of love and this is plain to smell when you lower your proboscis into the glass. This carmine-hued Mornington Peninsula Pinot has a stunning sheen and arresting aromatic promiscuity at the same time as being unnervingly elemental, wearing its stems on its sleeve. Youthful and crammed with cherry-stone fruit, this “green” flavour plays good-cop-bad-cop with your senses, taking turns to flatter and then sock you hard in the chops.
I expect the Pinot freaks to fight to the death for bottles. Owners/winemakers Aaron Drummond at Craggy Range and Dan Buckle at Domaine Chandon will head back to their day jobs oblivious of the street brawl they leave behind them.
• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).