A stellar vinous treat like no other

 

2015 Gewurztraminer, Domaine Marcel Deiss, Alsace, France

2015 Gewurztraminer, Domaine Marcel Deiss, Alsace, France £24.95, reduced to £22.50 each by the case, Lea & Sandeman, 020-7244 0522

There is a lot of rubbish written about the gewurztraminer grape, but its most exciting proponents live almost exclusively in Alsace. Jean-Michel Deiss of the Marcel Deiss estate is one of them. He is, on the one hand, a magician… on the other, a madman. The grape he works his magic on can turn into either a flabby, flamboyant, fruit-driven fop, or an electrifying, aromatic assault and sensory journey like no other.

In a book I wrote a number of years ago, I selected Deiss as one of my 100 most iconic wine estates in the world. I consider Jean-Michel’s handling of the gewurztraminer grape to be extraordinary, and this 2015 vintage is soaring right now, with terrific balance, impeccable florals and a devastatingly clean and bright finish.

Of course, the grape makes itself heard in the glass. It is amazingly pungent and mouth-coating. I know of no one who could polish off a whole bottle on their own for fear of flavour-overload, but if shared, with the right dish, during a jaw-dropping course at a dinner party, there are very few wines on the planet that can elicit the reaction that this wine can.

All this, and it is the same price as a dreary bottle of supermarket own-label Champagne. I encourage everyone who reads this column to buy a bottle, take it home, and deploy it with a superbly indulgent terrine this weekend. Then tell me that this isn’t a stellar vinous treat like no other.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).