The finest still xarello I have ever tasted

2016 HMR White, Mont Rubí wine

2016 HMR White, Mont Rubí, Penedès, Spain £13.95, Jeroboams, 020-7235 1612, Jeroboams.co.uk

I popped into the newly revamped Jeroboams store on Pont Street in London’s Belgravia district the other day and set about tasting 20 wines, all of them priced at under £20. It was a tremendous experience, not least because the emporium’s wine director, Peter Mitchell, is eminently aware that although it’s a doddle to buy the dear stuff, it can be fiendishly difficult to track down competitively priced but decent wine. He puts an enormous amount of effort into this sector of his portfolio and this is very evident when you dive into his selected wines.

A summer indulgence

HMR White is my pick for spring/summer indulgence and it is guaranteed to impress your palate. Mont Rubí sits high up in the hills 60km west of Barcelona in Spain. At an altitude of 700m, this estate used to make cava, but in 2001 they changed tack and started to make still wines out of their cava grapes and also some reds from the rare variety sumoll.

HMR White is made of xarello and it is the finest still version of this grape I have tasted. It reeks of class, with delicacy, control and length that belie its price. I would pay a lot of money for this wine in a fancy, Spanish, three-star restaurant, and so it is shocking that it is only £14 retail in the UK.

With a flavour reminiscent to the local limonera pears, spiked with tart green apples, this is a stunningly pretty wine and it will shock you with its purity.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).