A sensual, silky temptress

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Colle, Tuscany, Italy (£375 for 12 bottles, Haynes, Hanson & Clark, 020-7584 7927, email: london@hhandc.co.uk).

There is a rather baffling fashion in Montalcino right now to slaver thick, black, molasses-like fruit in brutal, splintery, fresh-cut oak. I abhor these flavours they are the antithesis of the noble sangiovese grape. Great Brunello is the same shape as effortlessly graceful claret. I have found a classically dimensioned beauty for you and it is the right price, too.

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HH&C has a shipment of this temptress arriving on or around the publication date for this piece. That is why I have given you their email address and phone number as opposed to website details you need to act fast to secure stock. Made by Caterina Carli, this is a sensual, silky wine made with a bold non-interventionist attitude. Wild yeasts and no filtration mean that this is a pure and vital wine. It spends four years in large, old, Slavonian oak casks, which barely mark the wine with oak and it is a profound joy to drink. I have no doubt it will live for another decade with ease, too.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.

He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.