Adventures in Saudi Arabia

You can now buy alcohol in Riyadh. There are a few conditions, of course. You need to be non-Saudi, you need to show evidence of a monthly income of over 50,000 riyals (£9,700) and you need to be pretty private about your consumption.

But nonetheless, the arrival of overpriced bottles of Jacob’s Creek in one of the world’s most well-known dry cities is a remarkable social change.

The Riyadh you might visit today is not the one you have in your imagination. Women can drive, they are entering the work force in droves, they don’t cover their faces and hair as much as they might have, and cross-sex handshaking is suddenly totally fine. All this is moving faster than anyone expected. Back to the booze.

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The opening of the bottle shop to ordinary expatriates (it had been for diplomats only) wasn’t entirely unexpected. What was is how much it has opened and how fast. In November, you had needed to prove a monthly income of 80,000 riyals. What next?

Maybe booze in actual bars. Word on the street is that international hotels will be allowed to serve alcohol within the year. Those in doubt should visit the rather lovely Attaché “multi-sensory playground” (read nice international restaurant) in the Diplomatic Quarter – a night club (Unstable) has already been built with something that looks remarkably like a cocktail bar. For now, it’s decorated with bottles of zero-alcohol Heineken and Tanqueray 0%.

You might think I am making too much of this. But if you pay any attention to UK billboards, you will already know how keen Saudi Arabia is to host you. The thing is, they built a lot of gorgeous hotels – and they are building a whole lot more – on the “build them and they will come” basis. It hasn’t been quite as organic as expected.

Hence, perhaps, the thinking about what might get the tourists in. There are, after all, an awful lot of people who think a day’s sightseeing in a hot desert is best rounded off more with a cold glass of rosé than one of “Saudi Champagne” (very, very sweet sparkling apple juice). Let them have it and maybe more of them will come.

What will they come to? The most popular tourist trip from the capital is a drive out to the Edge of the World, a particularly impressive 1,131-metre-high escarpment in the Tuwaiq Mountain range.

It is not for the faint-hearted – or for anyone who has had even the faintest hint of vertigo. You drive a good hour out of town (you will note the social liberalisation taking a while to filter out as you do). Then, you turn off and drive at speed through the desert – mostly trying to go faster than anyone else heading in the same direction.

There comes a point when you will think that you will be bumped and bounced through the dust forever – and that this is not ideal. Then, your breath is taken away. It’s absolutely spectacular. A lot of people see a stunning sunset. We saw a yellow blur through a dust storm. Atmospheric at least.

On the downside, there is no safety rail. A few weeks ago (I am told…) someone drove their car over the edge trying to get a particularly good view of the sunset. It’s all worth the drive. But maybe don’t bring the children.

An ambitious cultural project

The other absolute must-do in Riyadh is a visit to Diriyah, the birthplace of the first Saudi state and home to the Unesco World Heritage Site of At-Turaif.

The remaining buildings have been very heavily restored and the whole thing is being developed into one of Saudi Arabia’s most ambitious cultural (opera house included), tourism, residential and commercial destinations, all built in the Najdi mud-brick architectural style.

If we tried something like this in Britain, there would be relentless complaints about Poundbury pastiche. In Saudi, it’s considered a way to preserve heritage. It’s also lovely.

If you can find any way at all to fix a visit to the sales office, you must do this too. The very kind tourism and engagement director, Naif Awlia, showed us around and the models of the final project plan will amaze you almost as much as the construction site itself.

You should also visit the Al Rajhi mosque – the largest in the city and a rarity in that it offers a tour to non-Muslims.

Then, there is the Masmak Fortress, an important landmark in the battle to unify Saudi in 1902 and, for the slightly morbidly minded, a skim around Deera Square (known by expatriates as Chop-Chop Square. I’ll leave that one with you).

After that, eat pretty much anywhere. We loved Thara for Saudi food and Brunch and Cake on the edge of Diriyah for, well, brunch.

Finally, a trip on the design heaven metro is probably worth it (ladies, don’t forget to stay in the family carriage. The others are for men). Take it to the souk for your camel-themed fridge magnets, kilim cushion covers and, if you do not yet have enough of it, your physical gold.

We did not go on from Riyadh. But, after two days, it would make sense to head to AlUla for some eco-tourism in the desert (there is a Banyan Tree hotel) and then to the coast around Jeddah. Here, you will find snorkelling and diving in the Red Sea coral reefs alongside a slew of super-luxe hotels. You will want to go soon. You get the odd selfie-taking influencer at the Edge of the World these days.

But this is still very, very niche tourism. So, if you are happy to dance without drinking, going will leave you able to claim first-mover bragging rights. Once the snorkelling in the Red Sea round Jeddah comes with cocktails, that may no longer be the case.

Merryn visited the Edge of the World with Ghazi Tours and explored Riyadh with Experiences by Roam.

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