Wine of the week: a Marlborough sauv with a haunting appeal
This is an energetic, organic, expressive, uniquely fascinating and memorable wine.
2020 Bob Short for Kate, Sauvignon Blanc, Glover Family Vineyards, Marlborough, New Zealand
£16.99, bancroftwines.com
Winemaker Ben Glover’s sister Kate passed away, after a long battle with cancer, in 2018, and this wine is a wonderful homage to her. The “Bob Short for Kate” label is a reference to a TV show she loved, Blackadder, and it is fitting that this is an energetic, organic, expressive, uniquely fascinating and memorable wine. Ben has been making stunning wines since 1998 and is responsible for hundreds and hundreds of labels, but this is, not surprisingly, his most sincere and considered wine.
On the surface, it might look to the casual observer like just another New Zealand sauvignon blanc, but no. Made from 88% sauvignon blanc and 12% semillon, and sourced from three of the oldest and most famous organic vineyards in the region, these two grapes are co-fermented to combine their aromas and flavours from the very first moment possible. The depth of flavour of the semillon brings gravitas to the sauvignon’s levity and the result gives us a Marlborough “sauvignon” with remarkable textural appeal under its haunting citrus and fresh herb perfume.
Fabulous value for money and utterly delicious to boot, I would urge you to taste this wine because it is a pioneering style that, with a handful of other creations, is charting a new course for this region.
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com).