Review: A cultural tour of North India

I’m mesmerised from the moment I arrive at each Leela Palace hotel during my tour of northern India, from the immersive ceremonial rituals put on for guests to the personal touches that elevate every experience. Each hotel is unique with its own character and yet, the Leela brand flows seamlessly throughout them all. The Leela’s signature Tishya fragrance, for example – smelling of rare and indigenous kumud (lotus) and nilgiri flowers – fills each of the palaces during our stay. And there is, of course, The Leela’s fleet of luxury cars, on hand to welcome returning guests like old friends.

We visit New Delhi, Jaipur and Udaipur on The Leela Palace Northern India Trail, as part of our itinerary. At each stop, we are met with spectacular floral displays that have been carefully crafted into works of art. Committed to sustainable luxury, The Leela has teamed up with Phool, a non-profit group, where women from marginalised communities repurpose the petals into incense using a patented “flowercycling” process.

Each Leela Palace hotel along our route becomes a very luxurious home-from-home. There’s an extensive pillow menu on offer, for instance, and our dedicated butlers go over and above to ensure our stay is an experience we will always treasure. Thoughtful gestures abound, such as the rose-petal bath that was drawn for me one evening – a real delight.

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Delhi: Touring the energetic capital

At The Leela Palace, New Delhi, situated a short drive from India Gate in Edwin Lutyens’s capital, I am greeted with Arti, a Hindu ceremonial ritual, and shown to my spacious room. Determined not to let jet lag get the better of me, I head straight to the spa for a rejuvenating massage, followed by a spectacular Thai lunch at restaurant The Qube. Here, there is a digital “art wall” and the display shifts as I dine.

Works of art, from striking sculptures to intricate embroidery, can be admired as you explore the palace, with the vast collection of traditional and contemporary works personally curated by the hotel’s owners.

We enjoy another ceremonial ritual as night falls, and then a culinary ode to royal India at the restaurant Jamavar, where we feast from a spectacular silver thali platter. Diners can also enjoy modern Japanese food at restaurant Megu or fine Franco-Italian cuisine at Le Cirque – perhaps after an aperitif in the elegant Library Bar.

The infinity rooftop pool is perfect for taking in the vistas of Delhi, and it’s here I practise yoga as the day breaks. Having indulged in a hearty breakfast and several cups of masala chai, we embark on a tour of this energetic capital. Highlights include the bustling Khari Baoli, Asia’s largest wholesale spice market and one of the largest wholesale markets in the world, and – a rickshaw ride away – the Paranthe Wali Gali in the Chandni Chowk district, where we pause for pea and paneer parathas (a popular, layered flatbread). Nearby, at a cafe boasting a breathtaking view of the Jama Masjid mosque, we meet artist Ameen ur Rehman for a masterclass in calligraphy. Born and raised in Old Delhi, he is one of the few calligraphers left here. Our journey continues with a visit to Humayun’s Tomb, the architecture of which is thought to have inspired the Taj Mahal, before some retail therapy at craft and food market Dilli Haat.

Jaipur: Culinary delights in the Pink City

Jaipur is around four hours by road from New Delhi. As we arrive at the Leela Palace in the “Pink City”, I’m captivated by the hotel’s impressive architecture. The next moment is wondrous. In a majestic ode to Rajasthan’s regal heritage, dancers and musicians welcome us with traditional folk songs, and, as we’re welcomed indoors, rose petals engulf me from the balcony above. There are nods to the Pink City and Rajasthan’s rich history of art and crafts throughout the hotel, from the ornate murals adorning the grounds to the plush pink furnishings in my Royal Villa. After a dip in the private plunge pool, I indulge in a spectacular dabba (tiffin box) lunch. I deconstruct the different tiers, discovering paneer makhani, yellow dal tadka, shahi jeera pyaz pulao rice, ajwaini tawa paratha, and moong dal halwa, a traditional Indian dessert. I devour the lot.

The Leela Palace, Jaipur, sprawling over 8.5 acres, is an oasis of calm and the perfect place to relax and reflect after educating myself on the city’s past and present. We began with a tour of the Amer Fort, appreciating the grand Ganesh Pol gateway and discovering the shimmering Sheesh Mahal “palace of mirrors”. After rewinding more than 400 years, we leapt back into the present day, viewing modern art at The Sculpture Park in nearby Jaigarh. Our next stop was at the Non-Residency exhibition at the Jaipur Center for Art (JCA), co-founded by Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh Singh of Jaipur and contemporary art specialist Noelle Kadar, located within Jaipur’s City Palace. The JCA is an exhibition space for contemporary art and design, showcasing Jaipur’s rich artistic heritage.

We are travelling during the Hindu festival of Navratri, held last year in September, and as we tour more of the City Palace, we get a glimpse of preparations for a celebration that evening. We make our way to the Chhavi Niwas, “the blue room” and the ornate Shobha Niwas, known as the “Hall of Beauty”, where vibrant red, green and amber glasswork glimmers in golden walls. While you’re in Jaipur, don’t miss lunch at The Johri at Lal Haveli, which serves scrumptious seasonal North Indian fare “with innovation”. With rattan chairs and cherry-blossom walls, it’s a feast for the eyes too.

I’m already awestruck by the state of Rajasthan, but this region in northwestern India has plenty more surprises up its sleeve. I had an inkling our evening meal would be special, but I was dazzled as I arrived at the newly launched Jamavar Jaipur, at The Leela Palace. Embellished with more than 350,000 hand-cut thikri mirrors and crowned with 18-carat gold-leaf work, this opulent eatery is illuminated entirely by candles. We start the one-of-a-kind experience with a symbolic handwash ritual before indulging in culinary jewels fit for a maharaja.

Udaipur: Hand-block printing in the City of Lakes

The vibrant hustle and bustle of Delhi and Jaipur seem like a lifetime ago as our aeroplane touches down in Udaipur, known as the City of Lakes. We catch our first sight of the spectacular Leela Palace, Udaipur, from the water, as we glide across Lake Pichola on one of the palace’s electric boats. I’ve been blown away moment after moment on this journey so far, and I begin to realise that The Leela will sweep you off your feet time and time again, but just how will always be a beautiful, magical surprise.

The welcome ritual is a sight to behold. Guests are escorted from the private jetty into the palace hotel under a magenta parasol, embellished with gold embroidery. “It’s like a royal family welcome – we consider our guests to be so important,” the hotel tells me. Against a backdrop of traditional melodies, we are treated to another royal ritual, a rose-petal shower, then welcomed with Arti. Artworks can be enjoyed throughout the palace, from local, traditional Pichwai paintings to hand-carved lotus motifs. Then, there’s the food. The Palace Afternoon Tea session, for example, is a masterpiece in itself. We dine under the stars that evening at the restaurant Sheesh Mahal. We begin the exquisite fine-dining experience watching the sun melt over the 450-year-old City Palace, which sits across from us, on the edge of the lake, before tucking into foraged wild morel mushrooms with gold leaf and saffron paratha.

The hotel grounds are expansive, and I feel like a queen as I pad across to the waterside Guava Garden to practise Hatha yoga as the sun rises. The experience leaves me hungry for more – cue a nourishing Aujasya (the signature wellness programme) breakfast, which can be enjoyed alongside the extensive menu in The Dining Room. I top it all off with an aromatherapy massage.

While in Rajasthan, I am excited to see the traditional craft of dabu hand-block printing, an ancient mud-resist technique. I am fortunate enough to experience the process, as well as learn about dyeing with plant-based colours such as indigo, during an exclusive visit to the headquarters of Aavaran, a brand which aims to promote and sustain traditional crafts.

Our education into Rajasthani history and culture continues as we head to the Leela Palace, Udaipur’s farm. During this farm-to-table sojourn, guests are invited to forage fresh vegetables and join the talented chefs to transform the food into a sumptuous feast. I grill corn on a chullah, which is a wood-fired stove that is traditionally used in the region. Then, it’s time to take our seats and enjoy our spoils, overlooking the Aravalli mountains.

One final thing – last year, The Leela Palace, Udaipur, launched ARQ at Pichola, a bespoke collection of ultra-luxury villas. Each is, as I can attest, a truly private and luxurious sanctuary.

Jessica was a guest of The Leela Palace. Nightly rates at The Leela Palace, New Delhi start from £250, Jaipur £250, Udaipur £650, and from £2,686 a night for a one-bedroom villa at Arq at Pichola. Offer rates for The Leela Palace Trail are also available. Visit theleela.com for details.

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