Wine of the week: a far from foolish vinous venture

This is one of the most arresting Portuguese whites I have ever tasted, says Matthew Jukes.

2019 Howard’s Folly, Sonhador Branco, Alentejo, Portugal

£120, for six bottles (£20 each) or £96 for six bottles for members of howardsfollywine.co.uk; £19, pullthecork.co.uk, £14.50, derventiowines.co.uk.

The Howard in question is Howard Bilton, an ebullient Yorkshireman with a deep love of great wine and fine art. The Folly part is a warning to anyone who is not aware that making wine is never a very good idea if you are hoping to make profits! Nevertheless, Howard has set up a stunning winery and restaurant in the pretty town of Estremoz, in the Alentejo region of Portugal, where he makes delicious wines with arty labels under the guidance of his talented and highly decorated winemaker David Baverstock. Please do also take a look at the Sovereign Art Foundation to see the amazing charity that Howard set up nearly 20 years ago and the great work it does for disadvantaged children living in Asia.

Howard’s Folly brings wine and art together and my featured wine is Howard’s most accomplished white to date – and the label is jolly cute, too. Made from ancient vines, with no less than ten indigenous varieties in the mix, and coming from smallholdings situated in the high altitude Portalegre district of Portugal, this is a vinous snapshot of the country’s history like no other.

Kaleidoscopically perfumed, finely balanced and with careful oak augmentation adding drama, this is one of the most arresting Portuguese whites I have ever tasted.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com).

Recommended

Wine of the week: three stunning Italian reds
Wine

Wine of the week: three stunning Italian reds

Treat your palate to these extraordinarily delicious and competitively priced wines.
14 May 2021
Wine of the week: five superb clarets drinking now
Wine

Wine of the week: five superb clarets drinking now

Slake your thirst on some great clarets that are drinking right now, and are fabulous value for money, too.
7 May 2021
2019 Benedict White: a stunning Alpine white
Wine

2019 Benedict White: a stunning Alpine white

This exquisite Slovenian white is made from an inspired blend of pinot grigio, furmint and riesling.
30 Apr 2021
2013 Castelnau de Suduiraut: a thoroughly delicious sweetie from Bordeaux
Wine

2013 Castelnau de Suduiraut: a thoroughly delicious sweetie from Bordeaux

A juicy, honeyed, orange-blossom theme combined with neat acidity make this a thoroughly delicious wine.
23 Apr 2021

Most Popular

How will Joe Biden’s capital gains tax rise affect crypto prices?
Bitcoin & crypto

How will Joe Biden’s capital gains tax rise affect crypto prices?

The US president wants to increase capital gains tax – and that’s going to hit a lot of American cryptocurrency speculators. Saloni Sardana looks at h…
14 May 2021
Inheritance tax planning: the rules around gifting
Inheritance tax

Inheritance tax planning: the rules around gifting

There are plenty of legal ways to minimise an inheritance tax bill. Perhaps the simplest is to give away assets to reduce the size of your estate. Dav…
11 May 2021
Are we nearing the end of the negative bond yield era?
Government bonds

Are we nearing the end of the negative bond yield era?

As inflation gets going, the era of the negative bond yield – that investors have to pay governments for the privilege of lending them money – might b…
14 May 2021