A phenomenal, plush chardonnay

With stunning depth and juiciness, plush, but controlled oak and serious length, this is a phenomenal wine.

2019 Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa  

£21.67 in bond per bottle, farrvintners.com; £22.50 in bond per bottle, uncorked.co.uk; £33.40, hedonism.co.uk; £35.99, thornewines.com; £34.99, harrogatefinewinecompany.com

In particularly challenging vintages there is an outside chance that a winery can make truly remarkable wines. Some estates find it impossible to step up, but others, in the face of adversity, have the confidence, experience and sometimes luck to make the inspired decisions that result in remarkable outcomes.

In 2019, Hamilton Russell managed to swerve potentially catastrophic damage from smoke taint caused by a massive fire in January. An unusually warm May, June and July affected chardonnay dormancy and the resulting bud break was extremely uneven. In addition, the vintage was cooler than 2017 and 2018. Rainfall was lower than average, too, but during harvest, frequent showers caused sustained high humidity. HR’s organic treatments proved highly effective against the threat of mildew. They also picked the day before the skies opened, too. 

While the chardonnay crop was 44% down, this is the most remarkable HR chardonnay I have ever tasted. With stunning depth and juiciness, plush, but controlled oak and serious length, this is a phenomenal creation. There is exquisite balance here, too, and all of this class and luxury sits atop stiletto-sharp acidity and a restrained 13.2% alcohol level. Pound for pound, this wine is in contention for Chardonnay of the Year. “Against all odds” is a recurring theme for this terrific winery.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

Recommended

How much will it cost you to retire early?
Pensions

How much will it cost you to retire early?

The pre-state pension income gap means couples may need an extra £136,000 if they want to retire at 60 – can you afford to retire early?
6 Jun 2023
Would a food price cap actually work?
Inflation

Would a food price cap actually work?

The government is discussing plans to cap the prices of essentials. But could this intervention do more harm than good?
6 Jun 2023
Best debit and credit cards to use while travelling abroad
Personal finance

Best debit and credit cards to use while travelling abroad

If you’re going on holiday or travel abroad regularly, it’s worth knowing what the best card is to avoid hefty fees. We weigh up the charges and any p…
6 Jun 2023
Care home fees rise 10%: how to save on care costs
Personal finance

Care home fees rise 10%: how to save on care costs

Nursing home fees have soared by 10% over the past year, meaning the average weekly cost is now £1,176, or an eye-watering £61,152 a year. But there a…
6 Jun 2023

Most Popular

Best savings accounts – June 2023
Savings

Best savings accounts – June 2023

Interest rates have been creeping up - we look at the best savings accounts on the market right now.
6 Jun 2023
Nationwide to give £100 cash boost to customers
Personal finance

Nationwide to give £100 cash boost to customers

Nationwide Building Society is giving customers £100 as it reinvests profits. Dubbed the Nationwide Fairer Share scheme, we look at who is eligible.
22 May 2023
Holiday rip-off: Millions of travellers hit with hidden costs by using debit card abroad
Personal finance

Holiday rip-off: Millions of travellers hit with hidden costs by using debit card abroad

A family of four on a week-long trip to France could pay an extra £212 in fees by using their everyday bank card compared to the lowest-cost option, a…
23 May 2023