Three ambitious tipples from Spain

2015 Pago de los Capellanes

2015 Pago de los Capellanes, Crianza, Ribera del Duero, Spain. About £23.50, GreatWesternWine.co.uk, Uvinum.co.uk, BottleApostle.com

The Wine from Spain annual tasting was held at Sky Garden at the top of the skyscraper known as the “Walkie Talkie” in the City of London. It was a great venue for this event, elevating the Spanish wine scene literally and metaphorically. There were rafts of ambitious wines and I tasted hundreds of bottles.

One of the estates that shone was Pago de los Capellanes in Ribera de Duero, with three outstanding wines in its portfolio. My featured crianza shows incredible charry, black cherry and plum fruit flavours with so much class and intensity it is hard to believe it has only seen a year in French oak.

The crianza’s big brother

Its big brother, 2014 Pago de los Capellanes Reserva (£38, GreatWesternWine.co.uk), is even more intense and regal. This time, the oak regime is 18 months in 100% new French barriques and this loads the palate with decadent carpentry and masses of spice. Only just drinking, this has another decade ahead of it.

A new release, and a complete departure from the rich reds, is 2016 O Luar do Sil Godello (about £15.50, GreatWesternWine.co.uk, ExelWines.co.uk, NYWines.co.uk), which blew me away with its white-almond and pear-juice succulence. Godello is a haunting white grape with more depth and less exoticism than albariño. Capellanes nails this grape’s character and it does it at uncommon value for money.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).