2013 La Violetta, Up! Shiraz, Great Southern, Western Australia (about £25, The Good Wine Shop, 020-8994 8184; Planet of the Grapes, 020-7831 2181; Covino, 01244-347727; The Knotted Vine, 020-86162170).
Cool-climate Australian shiraz is taking the world by storm and this is one of the finest I have tasted. It was six years ago when I first wrote up a wine from this estate in my 100 Best Australian Wines Report and I still remember the vivid flavour of 2008 La Ciornia Shiraz today.
Up! is cut from a similar cloth with heady, intense, pheromonal appeal and I can’t believe that no stems have been used in this wine’s production because the pepper and spice found here, which is usually determined from the addition of ripe stems and stalks during fermentation, is overwhelming. The black-cherry fruit is sleek and studded with raspy, iodine-pricked detail and the finish is crisp and angular. It leaves you with a desperately attractive slate-y freshness which cools your senses.
This wine is expressive and dramatic in every respect – it reminds me of a top flight, elemental Cornas from the northern Rhône, but with more freshness and juiciness on board. Up! floods your senses with invigorating perfume and because there is very little stock in the country you will have to act fast to secure a bottle. Do not delay – you must own Up!
• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).