Wine of the week: a simply majestic Australian cabernet sauvignon
The extraordinary complexity of this top class wine expands on the palate in all directions.
2018 Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Limited Release John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia
About £100 from all great fine-wine merchants from 1 September 2021
This is the most incredible Wynns Cabernet I can remember. This is a fairly heavy statement because I have been drinking these wines for 35 years and on my website you will find vertical tastings of Wynns epic reds going back to 1957. Wynns is Coonawarra’s most famous and historic wine estate and John Riddoch is its flagship wine. This is one of only a handful of Australian wines sold via La Place de Bordeaux, the elite distribution system for top Bordeaux châteaux and a limited number of top-class vins étrangers.
I am convinced this wine will be one of the most sought-after non-French wines since La Place opened up its portfolio to wines like Opus One. With only 35% new French oak barriques and hogsheads involved, the sensational Coonawarra Cabernet is allowed to sing at its purest and most melodic in this spectacular vintage. What amazes me is the extraordinary complexity of perfume, flavour, depth and length in this wine. It expands on the palate in all directions without being a heavy or imposing wine. I have awarded the wine a score of 19.5+/20 in my notes, which puts it in the very highest echelons of cabernet sauvignon in the world. The balance is extraordinary, not least because, at only three years old, it can be swallowed and savoured with ease, and yet there must be three or four decades ahead for this majestic wine.
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)