Wine of the week: a simply incredible English vintage

This late disgorged wine, which has spent nine years on its lees before release, is downright spectacular.

2011 Squerryes, Brut

2011 Squerryes, Brut (Late Disgorged 2020), Exclusive Vintage Reserve, Sevenoaks, Kent, England 

£65, reduced to £52 for “members” (there is no joining fee), squerryes.co.uk

I am a fan of Squerryes wines, although I don’t taste them as often as I would like because they tend to keep a low profile. I have previously written up both the 2010 and 2013 vintages, five and four years ago respectively, in my column in the Daily Mail, and more recently I have tasted the 2014, 2015 and 2016 vintages. All are very nice wines, and they seem cut from the same, fine cloth, but there has been a gradual evolution in their sophistication as the years roll by and this is evidenced in their depth and length of flavour. I put this down to vine age, as the roots search deeper and gather more complexity to embolden the fruit at harvest time.  

When I opened my featured wine, however, my whole understanding of Squerryes changed. Where I had been previously experiencing taut, unyielding acidity coupled with the infinitesimal blossoming of fruit tones, this late disgorged wine, which has spent nine years on its lees before release, is downright spectacular. It is smooth, succulent, layered and luxurious – a completely different beast to the regular vintage releases. You must seek it out to experience this incredible flavour. Winemakers and estates will of course be familiar with the concept of extended lees ageing (and the cost of holding back wines for years before release). But when the results are this epic, the agonising wait for vines to come to maturity is well worth it.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

Recommended

Where will house prices go in 2023?
House prices

Where will house prices go in 2023?

We explore what could happen to house prices in 2023 as the market continues to slow down.
24 Mar 2023
Dar Zemora: a tour of magical Marrakech
Travel and holidays

Dar Zemora: a tour of magical Marrakech

Jon Connell explores from this charming boutique hotel just outside the medina
24 Mar 2023
3 success stories set for long-term growth
Investments

3 success stories set for long-term growth

A professional investor tells us where he’d put his money. This week: Felix Wintle, manager of the VT Tyndall North American Fund, selects three favou…
24 Mar 2023
Share tips of the week – 24 March
Investments

Share tips of the week – 24 March

MoneyWeek’s comprehensive guide to the best of this week’s share tips from the rest of the UK's financial pages
24 Mar 2023

Most Popular

Bank of England hikes key interest rate to 4.25%
UK Economy

Bank of England hikes key interest rate to 4.25%

The Bank of England raised rates by 0.25% following a surprise jump in inflation.
23 Mar 2023
Will energy prices go down in 2023?
Personal finance

Will energy prices go down in 2023?

Ofgem’s price cap is now predicted to fall below £2,000, based on average typical use, from July, for the first time since 2022. We have all the detai…
21 Mar 2023
When will interest rates go up?
UK Economy

When will interest rates go up?

The Bank of England raised rates to 4.25%, its 11th consecutive increase. Does the base rate have further to go?
23 Mar 2023