No matter how luxurious a hotel, sometimes there’s no substitute for the privacy, seclusion and flexibility of a country cottage. The problem is that simply renting a holiday let can mean giving up the “little things”, such as en-suite bathrooms with fresh bathrobes, leisure activities and proximity to a restaurant.
What’s more, if you don’t plan your stay carefully, you can find yourself in the middle of nowhere, miles from any point of interest. That can be a major problem, especially if, like me, you are travelling by train, rather than by car.
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Even before I entered the cottage, I noticed a rack just outside filled with Wellington boots of various sizes – a thoughtful touch given the variability of the Yorkshire weather. Those who like walking will also appreciate that, in addition to cooking facilities, a fridge and a freezer, the large kitchen comes with a washing machine and dryer.
The dining room is perfect for larger groups
The dining room can seat up to ten people, which makes it ideal for larger groups. After you’ve eaten, you can relax in the well-furnished living room and watch television, or simply lounge in front of the fireplace that serves as the room’s main focal point.
The three double bedrooms are large and luxurious, each with beautiful views of the countryside. When I awoke in the four-poster bed, which fills the main bedroom, I felt like a country squire.
A splendid garden and hot tub
The garden is another highlight of the property. When I visited in mid-September, it was teeming with flora and fauna, from rabbits to mushrooms, and I even spotted a pheasant flapping its feathers.
However, the pièce de résistance is the hot tub. It is available anytime during the day without the need for preparation, and is situated in such a way that you can soak for hours, while enjoying a wonderful panorama of the Yorkshire Dales.
The hot tub is the pièce de résistance
The cottage also feels refreshingly private. To get to Stank House Farm, you walk down a track from the main road, giving you a feeling of seclusion, while not being too far out of the way. But if you do find yourself craving a little outside company, The Devonshire Arms is a charming boutique inn, 15 minutes away.
It is also run by the Devonshire family. Those staying at the cottage can use the spa facilities, which include a gym and a swimming pool, as well as book spa treatments.
Being so close to The Devonshire Arms also gives you the option of dining at the hotel’s well-regarded brasserie restaurant.
I plumped for the signature and juicy “Devonshire Burger” with American-style Monterey Jack cheese and char siu pulled pork (£23). Given the location, I also ordered a “Devonshire 75” – the local take on the classic French cocktail, here made with Devonshire sparkling wine, Chatsworth gin and lemon juice.
Bolton Abbey is not to be missed
Considering the temptations to be indulgent at The Devonshire Arms, it is a good thing that there are so many opportunities in the area to walk it all off. Bolton Abbey is, naturally, one of the main local attractions and it is just a short stroll from Stank House Farm.
For around four centuries, the priory served as a working Augustinian monastery before being partially demolished when, along with other monasteries in England, it was closed in 1539.
However, a deal was struck at the time, which meant that what was left of the abbey was incorporated into the village church, still in use today. As for the well-preserved ruins themselves, they have become a major tourist attraction.
Stank House Farm is close to several good walks
Walks, waterfalls and viewing points
The grounds of Bolton Abbey are known for the 62 stepping stones used by the lay workers to cross the River Wharfe. During the summer, they can still be used, but by the time I arrived in the autumn, they were completely submerged.
Still, you don’t have to get your feet wet. There is a bridge that connects the banks, and so I was able to spend an enjoyable day doing the 13 kilometre circular walk from Bolton Abbey to Barden Bridge.
I passed through some spectacular scenery, including the Strid, an area of rapids that is said to be one of England’s most dangerous stretches of waters, due to the network of caves that lurk underneath.
The waterfall named the Valley of Desolation and Simon’s Seat, a viewing point, are also worth visiting. While they require some dexterity and careful footwork to get to, the journey is well worth it, as the experience is not to be missed – rather like Bolton Abbey itself.
Matthew was a guest of Stank House Farm on the Bolton Abbey Estate. Stays at the cottage, which sleeps six, start from £1,464, based on a four-night stay.
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