A thrilling, blackberry-soaked elixir

2017 Château MarisMany no- and low-sulphur wines are lacklustre, says Matthew Jukes. But this 2017 Château Maris is something else.

910-Maris-634

2017 Chteau Maris, Savoir Vieillir, Minervois, Languedoc, France £16.99, Waitrose.com.

Robert Eden, vintner and co-owner of Chateau Maris, has lived in France since 1994 after travelling in Australia, Italy, Burgundy, Spain and California, where he worked at a collection of stellar wineries. Since 1997, he has pioneered organic and biodynamic viticulture. As a result his property features a carbon-neutral, hemp-bricked winery that passively consumes carbon dioxide. Savoir Vieillir translates as "understanding how to age".

My featured wine has no added sulphur (sans souffre ajout) and is a red designed by Robert and his collaborator Benjamin Darnault. It is made from mainly syrah grapes with a touch of grenache and it comes from a south-facing vineyard, situated at 300m above sea level, called Les Panels. The soil is a mix of clay, limestone and sandstone, and this plot sits within the hallowed Minervois Cru La Livinire.

I am not one for falling for trendy "bio" wines and most no- or low-sulphur bottles that appear on my tasting table look lacklustre and often faulty, but this wine is something else. Inky black in colour, with a velvety texture and sensational perfume, this is a thrilling, sooty, plum and blackberry-soaked elixir and it is staggeringly impressive. Only 7,200 bottles were made exclusively for Waitrose. Once customers taste this wine I am certain there will be a stampede to restock, so don't delay.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Recommended

Wine of the week: an enchanting chardonnay from Belgium
Wine

Wine of the week: an enchanting chardonnay from Belgium

Delicate, haunting and packed with vitality and verve, this Belgian chardonnay is a rare beauty.
26 Feb 2021
Wine of the week: a quartet of remarkable kiwis
Wine

Wine of the week: a quartet of remarkable kiwis

Matthew Jukes tastes four remarkable bottles from prodigiously talented New Zealand winemaker Jules Taylor.
19 Feb 2021
Wine of the week: a pair of English beauties
Wine

Wine of the week: a pair of English beauties

Bringing out the incandescent beauty of the ortega grape variety, these two English wines are like nothing you will have ever tasted before.
12 Feb 2021
Wine of the week: a top-flight Californian chardonnay
Wine

Wine of the week: a top-flight Californian chardonnay

A beating heart of refreshing acidity electrifies this dynamic wine.
8 Feb 2021

Most Popular

Are we heading for another bond market tantrum?
Government bonds

Are we heading for another bond market tantrum?

The last time the US central bank tried tightening the purse strings, the bond markets threw a tantrum. With yields now rising, could we be about to s…
25 Feb 2021
Expect more turbulence as the market calls central bankers’ bluff
Stockmarkets

Expect more turbulence as the market calls central bankers’ bluff

With bond yields climbing and stockmarkets sliding, markets are hoping central bankers will step in again to repress interest rates – but that won’t …
26 Feb 2021
Invest in water and provide a buffer against future pandemics
Soft commodities

Invest in water and provide a buffer against future pandemics

Global water shortages have long hampered growth and development, and climate change has exacerbated the problem. Will the coronavirus pandemic be a t…
25 Feb 2021