A honeyed sweetie with orangey notes

2016 DisznókoThis Tokaji is both sweet and dry in one breath, says Matthew Jukes.

909-wine-634

2016 Disznko, Late Harvest, Tokaji, HungaryHalf-litre bottle £14.50, LeaAndSandeman.co.uk; £14.99 or £13.20 by the straight dozen, CambridgeWine.com; £16, TanninAndOak.com.

Certain sweet wine styles appeal to drinkers with very sweet palates, while others appeal widely, even to people who say that they don't actually like sweet wines. The critical factor in a sweet wine with a very wide appeal is the presence of acidity.

Acid cuts through sweetness and allows wine to fall into some semblance of balance. It also has the dual job of bringing freshness to the finish. It is not uncommon for a young sweet wine to actually taste tangy and dry right at the back of the palate when in fact it is a very rich proposition. Acidity is the battery pack for red and white wine and a young sweetie will always end up showing more overt sugariness as time marches on and the acid subsides.

I say this because this late-picked Tokaji is the lowest rung on the ladder in the Tokaji sweetness scheme of things (which goes all the way up to essencia you can imagine the impact of this style), and it is also a young wine, too.

It does indeed taste orangey with honeyed notes and almond flourishes, but it also possesses marmalade rind bitterness on the finish, which sucks the sweetness out of your palate, replacing it with a lovely "amaro" tang. It is a wine to drink with bitter chocolate and orangey puddings, but also with mature, hard cheese and nuts. It is sweet and dry in one breath and I love this counterpoint of seduction and then control.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Recommended

The top festive tipples
Wine

The top festive tipples

MoneyWeek wine columnist Matthew Jukes rounds up the best wines for your Christmas meals.
13 Dec 2019
Wine of the week: a mind-blowingly exciting aperitif
Wine

Wine of the week: a mind-blowingly exciting aperitif

This riesling is a bargain and a beauty. And at a sniff under 20 quid, it is positively irresistible.
16 Oct 2020
Wine of the week: one of the greatest grenaches
Wine

Wine of the week: one of the greatest grenaches

This very serious Australian red tastes like nothing else made from Grenache, says Matthew Jukes.
2 Oct 2020
Wine of the week: an out-of-body experience
Wine

Wine of the week: an out-of-body experience

This is one of the most grown-up and exacting Spanish white wines I have tasted in years, says Matthew Jukes.
25 Sep 2020

Most Popular

The Bank of England should create a "Bitpound" digital currency and take the world by storm
Bitcoin

The Bank of England should create a "Bitpound" digital currency and take the world by storm

The Bank of England could win the race to create a respectable digital currency if it moves quickly, says Matthew Lynn.
18 Oct 2020
What would negative interest rates mean for your money?
UK Economy

What would negative interest rates mean for your money?

There has been much talk of the Bank of England introducing negative interest rates. John Stepek explains why they might do that, and what it would me…
15 Oct 2020
Negative interest rates and the end of free bank accounts
Bank accounts

Negative interest rates and the end of free bank accounts

Negative interest rates are likely to mean the introduction of fees for current accounts and other banking products. But that might make the UK bankin…
19 Oct 2020