A sensual, silky temptress

published 15 September 2017

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Colle, Tuscany, Italy (£375 for 12 bottles, Haynes, Hanson & Clark, 020-7584 7927, email: london@hhandc.co.uk).

MoneyWeek wine fans know that I am a Brunello sceptic. I visit the region regularly and on each occasion I spend a fortune at the various well-stocked wine shops in order to track down delicious new finds. It is, more often than not, a disappointing exercise.

There is a rather baffling fashion in Montalcino right now to slaver thick, black, molasses-like fruit in brutal, splintery, fresh-cut oak. I abhor these flavours they are the antithesis of the noble sangiovese grape. Great Brunello is the same shape as effortlessly graceful claret. I have found a classically dimensioned beauty for you and it is the right price, too.

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HH&C has a shipment of this temptress arriving on or around the publication date for this piece. That is why I have given you their email address and phone number as opposed to website details you need to act fast to secure stock. Made by Caterina Carli, this is a sensual, silky wine made with a bold non-interventionist attitude. Wild yeasts and no filtration mean that this is a pure and vital wine. It spends four years in large, old, Slavonian oak casks, which barely mark the wine with oak and it is a profound joy to drink. I have no doubt it will live for another decade with ease, too.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books.

Matthew regularly lectures, judges, speaks at wine conferences and runs masterclass tastings for both corporate and private clients all over the world. Matthew is also the creator of his ground-breaking initiative, the One Day Wine School, an indulgent day of tasting and learning first performed in 2006.

He has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006 and has written a weekly column for the Daily Mail’s Weekend Magazine since 1999. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website, www.matthewjukes.com.

Matthew is one of the world’s leading experts on Australian wine and, with Brisbane-based wine writer Tyson Stelzer, runs an annual competition in Australia to find ‘The Great Australian Red’. He was made Honorary Australian of the Year in the UK at the 2012 Australia Day Foundation Gala dinner.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.