A thoroughbred beauty with no mank, plank or cheese in sight

2014 Viré-Clessé, Vieilles Vignes, Florent Rouve Sélection, Mâconnais, Burgundy, France

2014 Viré-Clessé, Vieilles Vignes, Florent Rouve Sélection, Mâconnais, Burgundy, France (£13.50, Marks & Spencer, MarksAndSpencer.com/wineshop). 

There is nothing quite like great white Burgundy. When the chardonnay grape is fermented skilfully, with just the right amount of oak, this is one of the world’s most coveted wine styles. Sadly, many
of them prove to be lean, manky, planky and cheesy, and this is why Australia, New Zealand, California and other interlopers are attracting so much business with this mesmerising white-wine grape.

Having said that, every so often a wine comes along with every single molecule in the right place. These thoroughbred beauties usually cost the earth and I will gladly, but sadly not as often as I would like, pay the price. Unicorn Burgundies, as I like to call them, are very rare indeed and this old vine chardonnay from the erstwhile appellation of Mâcon-Clessé is just such a beast. It is dreamy, lusty, succulent and yet refreshing. The oak is old and it doesn’t mark the wine – it merely caresses its flanks, which shimmer and shudder in the glass.

The wine is lovingly assembled by wine-maker Florent Rouve, and his respect for the calibre of fruit and its complexity is evident before you take a sip because a nose never lies. The scent of this wondrous wine is thrilling. I can still recall its aroma some three weeks after I tasted it.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).