2012 Ronan by Clinet, Bordeaux, France (halves, bottles and magnums are all equivalent to £72 per 12 x 75 in bond or £115.92 inc. duty and VAT, so £9.66 per bottle, £19.32 per magnum and £4.83 per half plus delivery charge. Contact bordeauxindex.com, 020-7269 0700).
The Bordeaux En Primeur tasting week is occasionally broken up by gérants (my favourite French word, meaning an overlord of a company!) showing me wines that are drinking and already available in the market. Château Clinet is one of the most revered names in Pomerol and its gérant is Ronan Laborde.
My interest was piqued immeasurably by his recently released 2012 Ronan, because I think it has the edge on every wine he has previously made. It arrives in a few weeks time, but you must put your hand up now. Made from 100% merlot, this is a lovely, open, silky-smooth claret with a touch of fresh, red fruit on the nose, a deep black-cherry palate and a minty clean crunchy of tannin and acidity on the finish.
This is a long, suave wine with lip-smacking acidity and controlled alcohol. It is also a total and utter bargain. You might also like to trade up to 2012 Fleur de Clinet, the second wine of Château Clinet, which arrives soon (£195 in bond).
• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com).