One of the greatest dry whites in the world

2004 Peter Lehmann, Wigan Riesling, Eden Valley, South Australia (£12.16-£15.00, SWIG, 08000-272272, www.swig.co.uk ; www.thedrinkshop.com ).

It is difficult to put into words just how important Peter Lehmann (the man himself) and his chief wine-maker, Andrew Wigan (Wigs), are in the Aussie wine scene. They have led from the front for 30 years, and over this period they have supported hundreds of grape growers in the Barossa Valley (whether they could sell the wines they made from their grapes or not).

Nowadays, they head up a very successful business, but it has not always been so, and their fight to win and their desire to over-deliver with every single wine puts virtually every other producer I can think of in the shade.

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This brand is one to follow, particularly with some of their top-end wines (and they are still so unbelievably affordable!).

The year 2004 was a great one for Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz is a 20/20 in my notes and this Wigan Riesling is a truly Grand Cru effort from its namesake. It is one of the greatest dry white wines in the world (every facet gleams with an iridescent charm) and it is also worthy of carrying Andrew's name.

If you love the wines of Trimbach, Hugel or Weinbach, in Alsace, you will love this wine. Have a look at my 100 Best Australian Wines list on www.matthewjukes.com for more wines of this calibre.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year.