Wine of the week: a simply perfect tawny port

This is without doubt the most sensational tawny port I have ever tasted, says Matthew Jukes. And it is drinking perfectly right now.

2007 Quinta do Noval, Colheita, Tawny Port, Portugal

£49.99, ocado.com

I have been struggling to find retailers for this wine, and it is a source of complete bafflement and exasperation for me because this is, without doubt, the most sensational tawny port I have ever tasted. I first sampled it on 8 April, and I still remember every single facet of its excellence. It ought to feature on every serious wine list in the country, but, as I file this copy, Ocado, while listing the 2005 vintage, has taken delivery of the 2007 vintage, and its wine buyer assures me that it will be updated on its website imminently. 

The first word I wrote about this vintage tawny in my notes was “paradise”. There have only been seven Colheita releases in the 28 years that Christian Seely has overseen the historic Quinta do Noval estate. The single-vineyard, single-harvest wine, bottled after spending 13 years in barrel, is one of the most profound and moving wines of any style I can remember. It is drinking perfectly right now, with just the right amount of venerable, aged characteristics balanced by masses of admirable vigour and boundless energy. 

But although my featured port is an absolute stormer, there was no Quinta do Noval Nacional declared in this vintage, so I wonder if we might see a 2007 Colheita Nacional appear on the market one day. If we do, I would feel compelled to give it a 21/20 score on the assumption that it might be a finer wine than this one, to which I have awarded my highest ever score for a tawny port – a perfect 20/20.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

Recommended

The fast-growing success of Britain’s wine industry
Wine

The fast-growing success of Britain’s wine industry

Hotter summers are great for the nation’s winemakers, says Chris Carter. But land for vineyards is selling at a premium – expect to pay up to £25,000 …
25 Aug 2022
A South African adventure
Travel and holidays

A South African adventure

From buzzy Johannesburg to big game drives, South Africa has it all, says Katie Monk
16 Aug 2022
Collecting rare whisky: a £16m tipple served with froth
Alternative investments

Collecting rare whisky: a £16m tipple served with froth

The market in rare whisky is looking very bubbly, says Chris Carter, with a 1975 cask of recently selling for £16m.
26 Jul 2022
Benetti’s stylish champion
Toys and gadgets

Benetti’s stylish champion

The Motopanfilo sailed to victory at the Design & Innovation Awards
21 Jul 2022

Most Popular

Beating inflation takes more luck than skill – but are we about to get lucky?
Inflation

Beating inflation takes more luck than skill – but are we about to get lucky?

The US Federal Reserve managed to beat inflation in the 1980s. But much of that was down to pure luck. Thankfully, says Merryn Somerset Webb, the Bank…
26 Sep 2022
Earn 4.1% from the best savings accounts
Savings

Earn 4.1% from the best savings accounts

With inflation topping 10%, your savings won't keep pace with the rising cost of living. But you can at least slow the rate at which your money is los…
27 Sep 2022
The pick of this year's best-performing investment trusts
Investment trusts

The pick of this year's best-performing investment trusts

Market conditions haven’t been easy, but these investment trusts have delivered strong growth, says David Stevenson.
23 Sep 2022