Wine of the week: a simply perfect tawny port

This is without doubt the most sensational tawny port I have ever tasted, says Matthew Jukes. And it is drinking perfectly right now.

2007 Quinta do Noval, Colheita, Tawny Port, Portugal

£49.99, ocado.com

I have been struggling to find retailers for this wine, and it is a source of complete bafflement and exasperation for me because this is, without doubt, the most sensational tawny port I have ever tasted. I first sampled it on 8 April, and I still remember every single facet of its excellence. It ought to feature on every serious wine list in the country, but, as I file this copy, Ocado, while listing the 2005 vintage, has taken delivery of the 2007 vintage, and its wine buyer assures me that it will be updated on its website imminently. 

The first word I wrote about this vintage tawny in my notes was “paradise”. There have only been seven Colheita releases in the 28 years that Christian Seely has overseen the historic Quinta do Noval estate. The single-vineyard, single-harvest wine, bottled after spending 13 years in barrel, is one of the most profound and moving wines of any style I can remember. It is drinking perfectly right now, with just the right amount of venerable, aged characteristics balanced by masses of admirable vigour and boundless energy. 

But although my featured port is an absolute stormer, there was no Quinta do Noval Nacional declared in this vintage, so I wonder if we might see a 2007 Colheita Nacional appear on the market one day. If we do, I would feel compelled to give it a 21/20 score on the assumption that it might be a finer wine than this one, to which I have awarded my highest ever score for a tawny port – a perfect 20/20.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

Recommended

Renting a slice of heaven on Moorea
Travel and holidays

Renting a slice of heaven on Moorea

Chris Carter heads to French Polynesia in search of his own private paradise
27 Jan 2023
Croatia without the crowds
Travel and holidays

Croatia without the crowds

Dubrovnik and Split still have plenty of charm in the low season
20 Jan 2023
Hotel Bel-Air: a home away from Hollywood
Travel and holidays

Hotel Bel-Air: a home away from Hollywood

The Hotel Bel-Air in California has long provided sanctuary to the stars
6 Jan 2023
Swiss Christmas delights
Travel and holidays

Swiss Christmas delights

Matthew Partridge explores the festive market and the Hotel N’vy in Geneva
23 Dec 2022

Most Popular

Share tips of the week - 27 January 2023
Investments

Share tips of the week - 27 January 2023

MoneyWeek’s comprehensive guide to the best of this week’s share tips from the rest of the UK's financial pages
27 Jan 2023
Will energy prices go down in 2023?
Personal finance

Will energy prices go down in 2023?

Wholesale gas prices are on a downward trajectory, but does this mean lower energy bills later this year?
27 Jan 2023
When will interest rates go up?
UK Economy

When will interest rates go up?

New interest rates will be announced on 2 February – we look at what to expect.
26 Jan 2023