Advertisement

Wine of the week: a perfect and thrilling tightrope routine

This is a delicious and well-thought-through wine with delicacy and considerable richness in perfect harmony.

2018 Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia, Tuscany, Italy 

£41.68, armitwines.co.uk

Winemaker Olga Fusari pulled off a perfect tightrope routine when she made this wonderful wine. Ornellaia is famous for making one of the most expensive and collectable of all Super-Tuscan reds, but this 2018 vintage of its unusual white blend is a thriller. Made from 83% sauvignon blanc, 11% vermentino and 6% viognier, this is a full-bodied white wine. It not only tastes amazing, but also carries with it a sense of true vinous skill and innate balance. The 2018 was, if you look at the climatic conditions, a rather rainy vintage, at least for the first half of the year. Rainy years often give rise to dilute crops, but the sun shone in the second half of the summer and cool nights ensued, so this wine has fleshiness, levity and also crucial acidity. 

Advertisement - Article continues below

If you are trying to guess what this wine tastes like, you will not be able to do it from the grapes involved, let alone their percentage involvement in this blend! Rather think of them as a layer cake, led by sensual and provocative viognier, followed by herbal, saline vermentino and then powered on for minutes by part-oak-fermented and aged sauvignon blanc. Half of this wine sees barriques and half again is new oak. This component allows the palate and finish of this wine to puff out its chest and strut its stuff. This is a delicious and well-thought-through wine with delicacy and considerable richness in perfect harmony. It never oversteps the mark, while retaining its lush, citrus and tropical fruit allure ,and that makes it ever so captivating and thoroughly worthy of its Ornellaia label.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

Advertisement
Advertisement

Recommended

The top festive tipples
Wine

The top festive tipples

MoneyWeek wine columnist Matthew Jukes rounds up the best wines for your Christmas meals.
13 Dec 2019
Wine of the week: a staggering Bacchanalian creation
Wine

Wine of the week: a staggering Bacchanalian creation

With uncommon texture, palate plushness and perfect balance, this wine is a different take on the Bacchus grape, says Matthew Jukes.
7 Aug 2020
Wine of the week: a genuinely unique new rosé
Wine

Wine of the week: a genuinely unique new rosé

This scintillating new English rosé is like no other I have ever tasted, says Matthew Jukes.
24 Jul 2020
Wine of the week: an eruption of intense flavour from Etna
Wine

Wine of the week: an eruption of intense flavour from Etna

This Italian white could herald one of the most welcome renaissances in the modern wine world.
17 Jul 2020

Most Popular

Don’t despair on dividends – these companies could be set to bring them back
Income investing

Don’t despair on dividends – these companies could be set to bring them back

The value of dividends paid out by UK stocks has plummeted this year as companies “rebase” their payment policies. But things could soon start to look…
6 Aug 2020
Gold hits the big $2,000 level – are Aim miners about to play catch up?
Gold

Gold hits the big $2,000 level – are Aim miners about to play catch up?

With the price of gold shooting through $2,000 an ounce, the yellow metal looks unstoppable. Things are so bullish, even Aim-listed junior gold miners…
5 Aug 2020
Too embarrassed to ask: what is “real return”?
Too embarrassed to ask

Too embarrassed to ask: what is “real return”?

MoneyWeek's latest "too embarrassed to ask” video explains what a real return is and why it's so important for investors.
5 Aug 2020