Wine of the week: a simply sensational Champagne

published 24 April 2020

2007 Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Louis Salmon, Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France

Billecart-Salmon’s elite blanc de blancs is named after Louis, the brother of Elisabeth Salmon, who co-founded this illustrious Champagne house more than two centuries ago with her husband Nicolas François Billecart. The 2007 vintage is only the second release of this cuvée and it is even more sophisticated than the 2006, to which I gave a mighty 19/20 score in my notes! This wine gains a fulsome 19.5/20 score.

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It is made from a blend of three grands crus: Cramant, which brings pin-sharp acidity to the mix; Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, which loads structure and longevity into its frame; and Chouilly, which anchors this stunning creation into the Côtes des Blancs soil with its devastating minerality. This is a sensational wine. Billecart has augmented its oak imprint from 15% in 2006 to 50% in 2007 and yet I can barely sense the increase given that the wine is in silky, lascivious harmony. It has aged for nearly a decade on its lees and it is ready to go right now.

Every time you let this wine caress your palate it does so with a discreet, but highly enjoyable pinch of drama on the back end of each sip. As I get older, I prefer to save myself for the wines that really matter, turning down all but those wines I know pass my sky-high standards. This 2007 Louis is one of only a handful of truly great Champagnes I have tasted in the last 12 months and I cannot recommend it highly enough.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books.

Matthew regularly lectures, judges, speaks at wine conferences and runs masterclass tastings for both corporate and private clients all over the world. Matthew is also the creator of his ground-breaking initiative, the One Day Wine School, an indulgent day of tasting and learning first performed in 2006.

He has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006 and has written a weekly column for the Daily Mail’s Weekend Magazine since 1999. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website, www.matthewjukes.com.

Matthew is one of the world’s leading experts on Australian wine and, with Brisbane-based wine writer Tyson Stelzer, runs an annual competition in Australia to find ‘The Great Australian Red’. He was made Honorary Australian of the Year in the UK at the 2012 Australia Day Foundation Gala dinner.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.