Wine of the week: an extraordinary Champagne going cheap

This is a stellar Champagne made from perfect ingredients.

NV Gatinois, Brut Tradition, Grand Cru, Aÿ, Champagne, France

£35.15, reduced to £31.25 each for a case of 12 bottles, Haynes Hanson & Clark, 020-7584 7927,

I can remember sitting next to the venerable Madame Gatinois at a Bollinger Vins Clairs Assemblage lunch many, many years ago. This prestigious, annual event is held to thank those grape growers who contribute to Bollinger’s own harvest and it forms the basis for blending the wines that will appear on the market in years to come. Gatinois is based in the great village of Aÿ, just down the road from Bolly, and it owns 7.5 hectares of epic pinot noir vines, most of which they sell to Bollinger. Madame Gatinois was seated to the right of Ghislain de Montgolfier, the Bollinger boss at the time, so she was clearly the most important person in the room, underlining the calibre of her fruit. 

Advertisement - Article continues below

Gatinois keeps a small proportion of its grapes to release under its own label and, today, tiny quantities of wine are made by Louis Cheval-Gatinois. The blend is, not surprisingly, made from 90% pinot noir, with the balance being chardonnay. It is a “white” Champagne, but cannot fail to pick up some pigment from its regal pinot noir skins, and it wears a curiously fascinating amber/gold hue. The nose and flavour are about as impressive as it gets and the wine is extraordinarily underpriced. This is a stellar Champagne and it is made from perfect ingredients. I love it more than a great many of the most revered wines from the famous Grandes Marques houses.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (




The top festive tipples

MoneyWeek wine columnist Matthew Jukes rounds up the best wines for your Christmas meals.
13 Dec 2019
Alternative investments

Wine-lovers sniff opportunity online

The lockdown has seen wine lovers rush online, says Chris Carter.
29 May 2020

Wine of the week: five exquisite creations from Burgundy

This is an absolute gem of a quintet from Burgundy – and you must taste them all, says Matthew Jukes.
29 May 2020
Advertisement Feature

Vintage champagne: an effervescent asset

SPONSORED CONTENT – Amidst the financial stresses and strains of various global financial crises, canny investors have identified vintage champagne as…
22 May 2020

Most Popular

EU Economy

Here’s why investors should care about the EU’s plan to tackle Covid-19

The EU's €750bn rescue package makes a break-up of the eurozone much less likely. John Stepek explains why the scheme is such a big deal, and what it …
28 May 2020
Industrial metals

Governments’ money-printing mania bodes well for base metals

Money is being printed like there is no tomorrow. Much of it will be used to pay for infrastructure projects – and that will be good for metals, says …
27 May 2020

As full lockdown ends, what are the risks for investors?

In the UK and elsewhere, people are gradually being let off the leash as the lockdown begins to end. John Stepek looks at what risks remain for invest…
29 May 2020