Review: an adventure through the Swiss Alps to Lake Como on the Bernina Express
Louise Okafor stays at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz in Switzerland and the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni in Italy
If you like to make the most of your holidays, a two-centre stay is the perfect way to do just that – especially when how you get from one to the other is all part of the fun.
This trip is a tale of two grandes dames and one grand train ride, hopping from the majestic Swiss hotel, Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, nestled in the foothills of the Swiss Alps, to an equally lovely Italian charmer, Villa Serbelloni, on the shores of Lake Como.
The first stage of my “planes, trains and automobiles” adventure was a short hop to Zurich on Swiss Air (not so short I couldn't manage to inhale the complimentary bar of Swiss chocolate), then onto Bad Ragaz, around one hour’s drive away, in the heart of “Heidiland”.
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The mountains provide a backdrop to a stay at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz
The hotel, which has been operating as a wellbeing and health resort since the 1800s, is an understated mix of quiet luxury and easy-going efficiency. People on health kicks drink the specially-blended morning juice before bounding off to the bright, well-equipped fitness centre or the med spa for a treatment.
Others, in a more leisurely frame of mind, can enjoy the vast breakfast spread of pastries, local cheese, fruits and truly excellent coffee in the airy Verve restaurant before heading off to the 18-hole golf course or padding through the labyrinthine corridors in robes and slippers to the spa.
The Tamina Therme is a spa in the oldest sense of the word, encompassing seven public thalassotherapy pools filled with thermal water from the nearby Tamina Gorge hot springs, plus another three pools just for hotel guests.
The spa setting is magnificent
Other activities include a hike (or e-bike) along the nearby Rhine, exploring the small village of Bad Ragaz and taking a tour of the art pieces dotted throughout the hotel and its grounds, like a treasure hunt in a giant open-air gallery. These form part of the Bad Ragartz sculpture festival that takes place every three years.
An unusual activity worth a try – water tasting (a brand new experience for me). Our tasting session was led by Stephanie Mieth, the hotel's water (and wine) sommelier. Despite her best efforts, my basic palate couldn't detect much difference. Now, if it had been wine...
Zollstube is a cosy spot to dine
If you’re feeling less active, there’s a relaxing salon with comfy seating set around a stunning glass and stone fire pit. It’s the perfect place for whiling away the hours with a book and perhaps a glass of something from the enormous wine cave, with over 2,100 bottles, many of which are pinot noirs sourced from the local Bündner Herrschaft wine region.
From there, head to one of the seven hotel restaurants with a total of six Michelin stars between them. My favourite was the hunting lodge-themed Zollstube, although its delicious traditional Swiss menu (notably the veal Cordon Bleu topped with raclette cheese) is one to avoid if you’re trying to trim your waistline!
The view of the Alps from the Bernina Express
A majestic train ride to Lake Como
From Bad Ragaz, it was a short car ride to Chur station for the next leg of our journey – the Bernina Express to Italy. The historic train winds through 55 tunnels, over 196 bridges, past vast lakes, glaciers and up snow-capped mountains as you take in the spectacular scenery from the comfort of the panoramic sightseeing cars (or, like me, bob around trying and failing to get a decent snap as the views whistle by).
You can ride the historic Alpine railway all year round, whether it's ski season or high summer. If you're lucky as we were, you can experience the sheer delight of going from snowy winter-wonderland scenes at Alp Grüm (2,091m), where the train makes a short stop, to sunshine-filled green valleys as you travel through Italy.
The Bernina Express takes four hours to travel the 90 miles between Chur, Switzerland and Tirano, Italy, but you can get on and off at stops along the way. Note: you'll need to make reservations well in advance if you want a seat in one of the first-class panoramic carriages. For more on the Bernina Express, see Visit Switzerland or the Rhaetian Railway website.
The Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni on Lake Como
From pretty Tirano, at the end of the line, the journey to the lakeside village of Bellagio takes around an hour, skirting the Alps and Lake Como itself, before winding through the narrow, cobbled streets of Bellagio and past the imposing gates of the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni.
The management of this beautiful grand dame is overseen by Jan Bucher, the latest in a long line of hoteliers. A true family affair, Bucher’s brother handles the front desk and his mother is still creatively involved in projects, including the expansion of the spa (Luce del Lago) – which now includes a full hammam experience – and the selection of art pieces for the redesigned signature suites.
The rooms are a superb example of Villa Serbelloni’s balancing trick: maintaining a heritage feel while adding stylish modern comforts throughout. From hand-printed wallpaper, silk eiderdowns that are hand-stitched in the hotel itself and polished wooden armoires, there are links to the hotel's storied past and thoughtful touches like the (beyond delicious) homemade polenta cake on arrival and the custom fragrance specially created for the hotel’s bath products.
Beautiful Lake Como
There’s not much better for the soul than to wake up to the view overlooking the beautiful pool, the lakeside terrace bar and across the vastness of Lake Como – crisscrossed by boats and ferries – an experience so timeless you could imagine one of the many famous guests, from Churchill to Sophia Loren, looking out on the same scene.
There's plenty to keep you busy in Bellagio, whether it's shopping in the picturesque village (top tip: schedule your trips before 11 am, when the coach tours arrive), a visit to the nearby Botanical Gardens or a private lake tour in the hotel’s speedboat.
If relaxation is more your speed, the hotel's new beach club on the shores of the lake is a modern take on 1950s glamour. For many, the food is the draw of Villa Serbelloni.
The hotel’s restaurants include the picturesque terrace bar lake that was my favourite spot for lunch and pre-dinner aperitivi (make sure you try the speciality “edible cocktail scents”), poolside La Goletta, which serves seasonal Italian cuisine and the famous Mistral – an avant-garde fine-dining experience with exquisite service, headed up by chef Ettore Bocchia.
Bocchia takes an experimental approach to food – think ice cream made with nitrogen, frying with sugar, and ethical foie gras. If this conjures the spirit of Heston Blumenthal, well, both men are devotees of molecular gastronomy.
The restaurant is glass-fronted, which makes for a stunning setting at night with the twinkling lights of Lake Como as the backdrop to a gastronomic feast.
This multi-stop trip is the perfect pocket adventure – lots of variety, in under a week, without feeling remotely frazzled.
Louise was a guest of Grand Resort Bad Ragaz (from £756 a night at Quellenhof); Visit Switzerland; and Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni (from €850 a night with breakfast). Flights to Zurich and Bernina Express rail tickets were provided by Visit Switzerland
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