A terrific slightly pink sparkler from Sussex

2015 Rathfinny The terrific, pale hue of this utterly delicious Sussex sparkler catches you unawares

952-Wine-2015-Rathfinny

2015 Rathfinny, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Sussex, England£35.95, reduced to £33.50 each for 12 bottles, Lea & Sandeman, 020-7244 0522, leaandsandeman.co.uk

This wine is made from 65% pinot noir grapes and 35% pinot meunier, making it a fascinating "white from red" tipple even my fading eyesight can spot that there is a lot of red fruit in this sparkler because it is ever so slightly pink. This terrific, pale hue catches you unawares and then you are hit with the double-whammy of a haunting cherry-skin nose and a silky, hedgerow-kissed palate, which confounds the senses.

What is going on here? I can tell you that, although this wine seems to be intentionally playing tricks with your mind, it is also utterly delicious and drinking perfectly already.

And just in case you were tempted to think that this must be just a one-off, then try the 2016 Sparkling Ros Brut (£33.95, reduced to £31.75 each, case price). It has a steely 20% chardonnay in its mix and, while this wine is genuinely ros in colour, the palate is stern and linear, and the mouth-watering, percussive acidity drags the palate out to a staggeringly long finish.

This wine needs age and it is shaped like a mighty white sparkler, whereas the "white" is forward and flattering. Confused? You will be, but what a wonderful way to lose yourself in two brilliant newly released wines. The "difficult second album syndrome" was never a problem for Rathfinny. These two wines are a step up on their inaugural releases and I cannot wait to see what happens next.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

Recommended

A sophisticated trio of scintillating whites
Wine

A sophisticated trio of scintillating whites

An Australian sauvignon blanc that is as sophisticated and refreshing as any Loire superstar’s creation, plus a chardonnay and shiraz, too.
18 Jan 2022
Wine of the week: two very fine Bordeaux blends
Wine

Wine of the week: two very fine Bordeaux blends

If you’re looking to keep the cash under control while drinking world-class wines this month, then look no further than these fine Bordeaux blends.
10 Dec 2021
2018 Beeslaar: a simply perfect pinotage
Wine

2018 Beeslaar: a simply perfect pinotage

This the most attractive pinotage I have ever tasted: clean, fresh and structured and with more layers than a millefeuille.  
26 Nov 2021
Raising a glass to an investment in wine
Sponsored

Raising a glass to an investment in wine

SPONSORED CONTENT – How to fit wine into your portfolio
25 Nov 2021

Most Popular

Shareholder capitalism: why we must return power to listed companies’ ultimate owners
Investment strategy

Shareholder capitalism: why we must return power to listed companies’ ultimate owners

Under our system of shareholder capitalism it's not fund managers, it‘s the individual investors – the company's ultimate owners – who should be telli…
24 Jan 2022
Three innovative Asian stocks to buy now
Share tips

Three innovative Asian stocks to buy now

Professional investor Fay Ren of the Cerno Pacific Fund highlights three of her favourite Asian stocks to buy now
24 Jan 2022
Temple Bar’s Ian Lance and Nick Purves: the essence of value investing
Investment strategy

Temple Bar’s Ian Lance and Nick Purves: the essence of value investing

Ian Lance and Nick Purves of the Temple Bar investment trust explain the essence of “value investing” – buying something for less than its intrinsic v…
14 Jan 2022