The new French Revolution is coming – prepare your palate
The more vocal châteaux, from the less starry communes of Bordeaux, are finding their voices, says Matthew Jukes.
2014 Chteau Mazeris, Canon Fronsac, Bordeaux, France £17, Oddbins
There are more than 8,000 chteaux in the mighty Bordeaux region and, because they make a few wines each, the number of different labels available is immense. We tend to concentrate on the big names, at the top of the metaphorical mountain my annual Bordeaux En Primeur Report features around 350 of these, so this is shy of 5% of the total!
The petit chteaux, as the others are known, are anything but. Many are serious properties with many generations of experience and ancient terroir. The New French Revolution is coming and it is the more vocal chteaux, from less starry communes, who are finding their voices.
Mazeris has been owned by the de Cournuaud family for nine generations and it is a beautifully situated estate with 19 hectares of epic vineyards. Situated in the wider Fronsac appellation, some four miles northwest of Pomerol, I am falling for the wines from this region and, with value at the forefront of my mind, it is hard to overlook the sheer quality and impact of these wines.
Made from 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc, with the perfect amount of oak employed, this is a beautifully silky and balanced wine with a flavour that you would associate with a much pricier label. I have tasted the 2015 vintage too, and it is another cracker. Put this thoroughbred in your cellar and you will be sure to revel in its splendour.
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).