Wine of the week: a labour of love from Australia

2015 Circe, Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia (£29.95 or £323.40 for a case of 12 bottles, Berry Bros. & Rudd, 0800-2802440;BBR.com).

Circe's wines come from the scholarly academy of winemaking. These are fastidious, labour-intensive creations made with no care for the man-hours or pain invested. They are veritable labours of love and this is plain to smell when you lower your proboscis into the glass. This carmine-hued Mornington Peninsula Pinot has a stunning sheen and arresting aromatic promiscuity at the same time as being unnervingly elemental, wearing its stems on its sleeve. Youthful and crammed with cherry-stone fruit, this "green" flavour plays good-cop-bad-cop with your senses, taking turns to flatter and then sock you hard in the chops.

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I expect the Pinot freaks to fight to the death for bottles. Owners/winemakers Aaron Drummond at Craggy Range and Dan Buckle at Domaine Chandon will head back to their day jobs oblivious of the street brawl they leave behind them.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.

He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.