A silky, mellow pinot gris

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2016 Jules Taylor, Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand (£16.50, Handford Wines, 020-7589 6113, Handford.net).

I sometimes look back through past editions of MoneyWeek to see if current favourite wineries have popped up before in my copy. So it is rather reassuring to see that Jules has previously made the grade with her stunning sauvignon blanc it is still one of the best in town and also her rare grner veltliner, featured back in 2013, when she was blazing a trail for this grape in New Zealand.

This week I want to highlight another wine in her range the pinot gris. This grape rarely features in this column, because the everyday version (usually called grigio) is the equivalent of lift music unremarkable and monotonous. However, earth-shattering pinot gris can hit the high notes if it is cropped carefully and made with love.

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It ought not to be thought of as a variety that will be drunk within 37 minutes of picking it off a supermarket shelf someone told me that this is the average, although in Australia the time is apparently quicker because they polish it off in the car on the way home! I am sure that this is a joke, but it rather underlines the disposable nature of cheap pinot grigio!

Anyway, Jules's wine is a serious creation, which is built with style and depth of fruit. It is silky, curvaceous, thought-provoking and mellow. It is what every pinot grigio would like to be when it grows up, but sadly they will never get the chance.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).