An education in wine from a Spanish co-op

2015 La Nit de les Garnatxes, Sl per Sl Llicorella, Capanes, Montsant, Spain (£14.99, VirginWines.co.uk).

Each wine has the same label design, is from the same vintage and it is made from the same grape variety garnatxa, or grenache in French. The subtle difference is the soil in which these grapes are grown. There are four boxes on the top of the label and only one is ticked, depending on the exact type of soil in the vineyard. This is a technical trial which is impossible to perform unless you are a genuine vigneron. The fact that they have done this for us to see the striking differences that soil types make to a wine is fantastic.

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My pick of the four is the llicorella/slate soil, with its dense, dusty cocoa powder and plum notes. You really ought to taste all four though to take advantage of this unique opportunity. Panal/sand is gamey, spicy and tannic; calissa/limestone is mineral, earthy, firm and long; while argila/clay is the prettiest, with floral, rose petal and cherry tinges. I was completely gripped from start to finish!

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.

He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.