Wine of the week: a revelation for Champagne lovers

2002 Perle d'Ayala, Champagne, France (£77.99, Edencroft Fine Wines of Nantwich, 01270-629975; Broadmarsh Wines of Southsea, 02392-812113).

The 2002 vintage presented difficult conditions for the Champenois. But it is in these cool, often overcast, rainy vintages that the greatest wines are made. Champagne shouldn't be made from fully ripe grapes. Better to use barely ripe grapes with massive amounts of acidity. It is this acidity that gives the resulting wine its crispness and also the ability to age.

That's largely why this is the finest new Champagne I've tasted this year. I know Ayala well, but this 2002 Perle is nothing short of a revelation. Ayala usually leads with the Pinot Noir grape variety, situated as it is in A, the village at the centre of the finest Pinot Noir in the region.

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However, this time Perle is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, and all of the grapes come from Grand Cru villages. The Chardonnay brings a nerviness and tautness to the structure. It is this that propels this wine forward. Indeed, the exhilarating ride that Perle gives you on the palate is completely unexpected.

This wine is every bit as serious as any of the really big names. And at half the price of Cristal, for example, this gem is a must for any true Champagne lover. Cheers!

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year.