Wine of the week: A wistful Australian shiraz

2007 The Society's Exhibition Victorian Shiraz, Mount Langi Ghiran, Australia (£16, The Wine Society, 01438-741177).

This beautiful wine is an affordable reminder of just how talented the great Dan Buckle was when he made the wines at Mount Langi Ghiran, in Ararat in the Victorian countryside, 200km west of Melbourne. Dan took over winemaking duties from dearly departed vinous hero and pioneer Trevor Mast.

His first full vintage in charge was 2004 and he made some of the most incredible Aussie shiraz I have ever tasted in his ten years at the property.

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Winning countless awards and managing to urge the world's most critical palates to focus on a cool climate were his enduring legacies. I have a goodly collection of his blue label' shiraz in my own cellar with which to surprise people in years to come.

Dan has now moved jobs (like a highly prized centre-forward) to make sparkling wines at Domaine Chandon in the Yarra Valley and to develop his own-label Circe, which arrives in April keep your eyes peeled!

This own-label shiraz, made for the team at Wine Society, is a beauty. Drinking perfectly with savoury hedgerow fruit and an epic, wistful finish, it should find a home in your cellar today.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).