Wine of the week: a simply astounding ripasso
The flair and richness at the heart of this Italian red is truly sensational.
2018 Valpolicella Ripasso, Classico Superiore, Monte Santoccio, Verona, Italy
I have written up a detailed review of the extraordinary portfolio of Monte Santoccio wines on my website, including a preview of a wine never before seen on our shores, the 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico Black Label, and they are all extraordinary creations. I have chosen to focus this week’s column on the ripasso in the range as the value for money afforded here is astounding.
Winemaker Nicola Ferrari was formerly an assistant to the legendary Valpolicella producer Giuseppe Quintarelli, and he and his wife Laura now make their wines from four hectares of organically farmed vines in Fumane. Their wines are as honest and accurate as any I have tasted from this region and yet there is fascinating detail to be found behind every label. Uncommon restraint and calm balanced by grand, layered, enticing and refreshing flavours – this is the Ferrari signature and you will find it on every bottle, from those costing £17.95 up to the £75 ones. This ripasso will act as your ambassador to the range and, given its astounding flavour and the keen price, I am sure you will rejoice when you meet it.
There is an extra dimension of flair and richness at the heart of this red that is truly sensational. Many wines of this style carry extra weight and darker fruit tones, but this elite version parades glorious red fruit and uncommon succulence.
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)