Wine of the week: the most magical Douro white in existence

This wine's flavour confounds the senses and tantalises your taste buds, says Matthew Jukes.

2019 Cedro do Noval, Vinho Branco, Noval, Douro, Portugal

£19.95, secretbottleshop.co.uk

This wine is a genuine star of the small screen. If all goes to plan, last night on Amazon Prime the first episode of series three of The Wine Show aired, and Cedro Branco stole the show. There was a cast of superstars, but I only had eyes for this epic white wine, which hits the shelves today. There is very limited stock in the UK and I am told that Cambridge Wine Merchants, South Downs Cellars, Carruthers & Kent and Clarion Wines are all groupies hanging around the stage door expecting stock to come their way, but for now the only website lucky enough to have stock is Secret! 

Quinta do Noval is a legendary property, making legendary wines, and the 1931 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port is the finest I have ever tasted. But this wine is not fortified nor is it a wine that requires age to mellow its charms. Made from 65% viosinho and 35% gouveio and fermented and matured in French oak, of which 20% was new barrels, this is a thrillingly daring white wine. At a refined 13.5% alcohol, Cedro is a cleverly balanced creation and it echoes top-flight Chablis in terms of flavour intensity and pristine freshness. But under the bonnet, there is a very different engine, powered by wild herbs, waxy citrus pith and stone fruit. Its flavour confounds the senses and tantalises your taste buds. In short, this is the most magical Douro white in existence.

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