Wine of the week: an out-of-body experience

This is one of the most grown-up and exacting Spanish white wines I have tasted in years, says Matthew Jukes.

2018 Manar dos Seixas, Galician Roots, Gallina de Piel, Ribeiro, Spain 

About £19.99, oldbridgewine.co.ukstswithinswineshippers.comnysawine.co.ukbutlers-winecellar.co.uk

Made by El Bulli ex-sommelier David Seijas, my headline wine and also a red called 2018 Roca del Crit, Windy Roads to Montjoi (£19.99) are both absolutely extraordinary. Manar is authoritative, extremely complex and tightly wound, based on treixadura with albariño, godello and loureiro bringing immeasurable class to proceedings. It opens slowly in the glass to reveal ozone-tinged, near-tropical fruit underpinned with severe minerality. It is one of the most grown-up and exacting Spanish white wines I have tasted in years and it is a classic David creation in that it is designed to drink with epic cooking.

Manar’s red brother Roca is a made from ancient carignan vines situated in the Rabós sub-region of Empordà, coupled with grenache harvested from younger vines in the Mas Marés zone. Some whole bunches are used and new and old larger format barrels are also employed judiciously. This does not taste like a Spanish Rhône blend to me; in fact, it reminds me of a masculine, toned, elemental Santenay, but with a much darker purple ink hue and extraordinary class. 

David sent me preview samples in early July and so I have waited patiently for these staggeringly serious wines to arrive. Today is the day! Get cooking and then pour these two wines for a genuinely fascinating, out-of-body tasting experience.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

Recommended

2019 Benedict White: a stunning Alpine white
Wine

2019 Benedict White: a stunning Alpine white

This exquisite Slovenian white is made from an inspired blend of pinot grigio, furmint and riesling.
30 Apr 2021
2013 Castelnau de Suduiraut: a thoroughly delicious sweetie from Bordeaux
Wine

2013 Castelnau de Suduiraut: a thoroughly delicious sweetie from Bordeaux

A juicy, honeyed, orange-blossom theme combined with neat acidity make this a thoroughly delicious wine.
23 Apr 2021
2019 Howard’s Folly: a far from foolish vinous venture
Wine

2019 Howard’s Folly: a far from foolish vinous venture

This is one of the most arresting Portuguese whites I have ever tasted, says Matthew Jukes.
16 Apr 2021
2019 Château Climens: high praise for this graceful, ethereal semillon
Wine

2019 Château Climens: high praise for this graceful, ethereal semillon

This extraordinarily pretty wine is one of the most delicious French semillons I have tasted.
9 Apr 2021

Most Popular

What is hyperinflation and could it happen here?
Inflation

What is hyperinflation and could it happen here?

The Bank of England has been accused of the kind of money-printing that could lead to Zimbabwe-style hyperinflation. But that's very unlikely to happe…
4 May 2021
Micro-cap stocks: how to get huge returns from tiny firms
Small cap stocks

Micro-cap stocks: how to get huge returns from tiny firms

Micro-cap stocks are often overlooked, but the British market has plenty of them and their potential is massive. Max King picks the best two investmen…
3 May 2021
Copper has hit a ten-year high, but this could just be the start of a huge bull market
Industrial metals

Copper has hit a ten-year high, but this could just be the start of a huge bull market

The price of copper is at its highest for ten years. But supply constraints and a massive rise in demand mean it’s not going to stop there, says Domin…
5 May 2021