Advertisement

Wine of the week: an utter stunner from Germany

This German pinot noir balances resplendent mid-palate fruit density with a sonorous aroma and a cool, long finish.

2018 Spätburgunder ‘S’ Weingut Meyer-Näkel, Ahr, Germany £38.10, thewinebarn.co.uk

Iris Ellmann runs The Wine Barn and she is a German wine dynamo. Her website features a collection of estates from all over the country, covering all styles and grape varieties, and I can highly recommend looking at it if you are curious to discover more about top-flight German wines. I attended a portfolio tasting of Iris’s wines the other day and came across this utter stunner.

Advertisement - Article continues below

It is a beautiful pinot noir that won a mighty score in my notes. It manages to balance resplendent mid-palate fruit density with a sonorous aroma and cool, long finish. Germany is slowly becoming a force to reckon with in pinot noir and there are a good few world-class wines made there, but they tend to be fearfully expensive. Having said that, too many are still lean and foresty, so when buoyant, silky, exotically proportioned wine like this comes along, I sit up and pay attention. 

Meyer-Näkel is a pinot noir specialist and there are more expensive versions than my chosen ‘S’ cuvée in its portfolio. These Grand Cru wines load more oak onto their framework and I feel that this unbalances the whole and cramps their exuberance. This is why I love ‘S’ so much. With only 50% new barrels employed for 12 months, the oak merely seasons the ripe fruit and allows it to sing in the glass. This is a perfectly balanced pinot noir and represents great value for money.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

Advertisement
Advertisement

Recommended

Visit/519374/the-top-festive-tipples
Wine

The top festive tipples

MoneyWeek wine columnist Matthew Jukes rounds up the best wines for your Christmas meals.
13 Dec 2019
Visit/spending-it/wine/601435/two-rare-but-brilliant-english-sparkling-wines-from-fox-fox
Wine

Wine of the week: two rare but brilliant English sparkling wines from Fox & Fox

These two new releases are worthy of extremely high praise.
5 Jun 2020
Visit/investments/alternative-investments/601392/wine-lovers-sniff-opportunity-online
Alternative investments

Wine-lovers sniff opportunity online

The lockdown has seen wine lovers rush online, says Chris Carter.
29 May 2020
Visit/spending-it/wine/601390/five-exquisite-creations-from-burgundy
Wine

Wine of the week: five exquisite creations from Burgundy

This is an absolute gem of a quintet from Burgundy – and you must taste them all, says Matthew Jukes.
29 May 2020

Most Popular

Visit/investments/commodities/gold/601444/these-seven-charts-show-exactly-why-you-must-own-gold-today
Gold

These seven charts show exactly why you must own gold today

Covid-19 is accelerating many trends that were already in existence. The rising gold price is one such trend. These seven charts, says Dominic Frisby,…
3 Jun 2020
Visit/investments/stockmarkets/601460/disease-rioting-and-mass-unemployment-so-why-are-markets-soaring
Stockmarkets

Disease, rioting and mass unemployment – so why are markets soaring?

Despite some pretty strong headwinds in the last year, America’s S&P 500 stock index is close to all-time highs. John Stepek explains why markets seem…
4 Jun 2020
Visit/investments/commodities/601433/commodities-possibly-the-biggest-opportunity-in-todays-markets
Commodities

This looks like the biggest opportunity in today’s markets

With low interest rates and constant money-printing, most assets have become expensive. But one major asset class hasn’t. John Stepek explains why com…
2 Jun 2020