Wine of the week: an utter stunner from Germany

This German pinot noir balances resplendent mid-palate fruit density with a sonorous aroma and a cool, long finish.

2018 Spätburgunder ‘S’ Weingut Meyer-Näkel, Ahr, Germany £38.10,

Iris Ellmann runs The Wine Barn and she is a German wine dynamo. Her website features a collection of estates from all over the country, covering all styles and grape varieties, and I can highly recommend looking at it if you are curious to discover more about top-flight German wines. I attended a portfolio tasting of Iris’s wines the other day and came across this utter stunner.

Subscribe to MoneyWeek

Become a smarter, better informed investor with MoneyWeek.

It is a beautiful pinot noir that won a mighty score in my notes. It manages to balance resplendent mid-palate fruit density with a sonorous aroma and cool, long finish. Germany is slowly becoming a force to reckon with in pinot noir and there are a good few world-class wines made there, but they tend to be fearfully expensive. Having said that, too many are still lean and foresty, so when buoyant, silky, exotically proportioned wine like this comes along, I sit up and pay attention. 

Meyer-Näkel is a pinot noir specialist and there are more expensive versions than my chosen ‘S’ cuvée in its portfolio. These Grand Cru wines load more oak onto their framework and I feel that this unbalances the whole and cramps their exuberance. This is why I love ‘S’ so much. With only 50% new barrels employed for 12 months, the oak merely seasons the ripe fruit and allows it to sing in the glass. This is a perfectly balanced pinot noir and represents great value for money.

Advertisement - Article continues below

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (




The top festive tipples

MoneyWeek wine columnist Matthew Jukes rounds up the best wines for your Christmas meals.
13 Dec 2019

The otherworldly silkiness of Japanese koshu

Japan’s koshu grape is a hard one to love, but this fascinating wine has an otherworldly silkiness, says Matthew Jukes.
21 Feb 2020

Wine of the week: a breathtaking, lip-smacking gewürz

This Alsatian gewürz is the quintessential definition of the grape in crystalline, liquid, dreamy form.
4 Feb 2020

Wine of the week: a bafflingly sublime syrah from New Zealand

No other wine from this challenging vintage comes close to this syrah, says Matthew Jukes – it shines out like a beacon
31 Jan 2020

Most Popular


Will coronavirus kill off the bull market?

It seems clear now the coronavirus will at some point go global. And when it does, will it bring down the stockmarket’s bull market? John Stepek looks…
27 Feb 2020

Gold, coronavirus, and the high cost of face masks in northern Italy

The price of gold is spiking – as it always does in a global panic. But this bull market predates the coronavirus epidemic, says Dominic Frisby, and w…
26 Feb 2020

What to look out for as panic over coronavirus spreads

Markets have started to get properly worried about the coronavirus outbreak. And it’s not just stocks, says John Stepek. Here’s what you should be kee…
28 Feb 2020

Why investors shouldn’t overlook Europe

SPONSORED CONTENT - Ollie Beckett, manager of the TR European Growth Trust, tackles investor questions around Europe’s economic outlook and the conseq…
6 Nov 2019