A breathtaking, lip-smacking gewürz

2018 Gewürztraminer, Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, France £25.08, sold in cases of six, Justerini & Brooks, justerinis.com, 020-7484 6430, email:justbrooksorders@justerinis.com

My favourite winery in the whole of Alsace is Domaine Weinbach. The old vintages look exquisite, the elite cuvées are spectacular and every wine I have tasted from there has been memorable. But there is one category of wine from this amazing producer that I rarely mention and this is remiss of me. The so-called “straightforward” or “entry-level” wines (I prefer the term “estate” wines) are simply spectacular – not just in terms of value for money, given that they come from the greatest producer in the region, but in terms of pure expression of their individual grape varieties.

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It is also a gastronome’s most exciting food and wine-matching weapon. Gone are the days of simply saying that Alsace gewürz goes with all forms of pâté or, the awful catch-all term, “Asian food”. This is a heavenly, challenging, multi-layered wine with blushingly beautiful near-tropical tones balanced by an ice cool, mid-palate brightness. It can go with anything. Weinbach’s 2018 Pinot Blanc (£18.88) and 2018 Riesling Cuvée Théo (£24.68), both sold in cases of six, are also simply breathtaking.